View over Trogir from the Kamerlengo Castle

From our stopover in Zadar, we continued further south in this fascinating country to explore the unspoiled beauty of another National Park – Krka – and the town of Trogir. The scenery on this next leg of the trip is really unbeatable, from the perfect coastline to towering mountains, and a road trip is the best way to experience Croatia’s stunning countryside.

Getting There

Zadar to Trogir isn’t far in terms of distance, but driving on the smaller roads does add some time – as well as great views – to the route. You could drive straight to Trogir fairly quickly via the A1 and use the town as your base to spend a few days in Krka, but we decided to do our sightseeing as we drove, with a handful of stops in the mountains.

The Entrance to Krka

It’s around 70km from Zadar to the official entrance of the National Park at Lozovac, which translates into an hour’s drive along the A1. Exit the motorway at Šibenik if you’re coming from the north, following the country approach road from Sibenik-Tromilja-Lozovac, following the signs. You can also go from Knin-Drnis-Tromilja-Lozovac for an alternative (and very pretty) route.

We followed the road north east through the mountains to Roški slap for our first stop, then doubled back to Lozovac and Šibenik, which worked well for a tour of the area. When you’re ready to drive on for the night, follow the 8 to Primošten and stop briefly for postcard perfect views over the Mediterranean – this is where most photos for guidebooks to Croatia are taken from! The coast road ends up in Trogir and it takes about an hour from Šibenik.

Things to See in Krka

The sprawling National park is full of amazing spots with panoramic views over the mountains and water and you won’t be disappointed by the sights wherever you choose to go. Follow one of the trails for a hike and the opportunity to find a remote and beautiful picnic spot – nature lovers will be in heaven! This video gives a taste of what to expect.

Roški slap, however, is a great destination to aim for when you’re exploring Krka. This semi-famous site isn’t too crowded and especially noteworthy for its beautiful waterfall (Ogrlica) and the wild feeling of the surroundings. Enjoy a swim (but watch out for water snakes) followed by a rustic lunch in an old fashioned konoba (tavern style restaurant) to refuel for the next part of the drive.

Head further north for a glimpse of the Krka River canyon or drive down to one of the main waterfalls, Skradinski buk, for more amazing swimming amongst the tiers and cascades of the water. The town of Šibenik is also well worth a visit for the Cathedral of St. Jacob, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a fascinating architectural monument.

Skradinski-buk waterfalls and pool in Krka National Park, Croatia – Zoran Knez & Dražen Radujkov

To continue the adventure into the evening, pitch a tent on the outskirts of the National Park at Camping Vranjica Belvedere. It’s about 5 km outside of Trogir in the direction of Šibenik and makes a great place to spend the evening under the stars if the weather is right. It’s a 3 star campsite with good facilities, including a shuttle boat to the Riva in Trogir where you can find restaurants and bars for an evening out.

In Trogir

Trogir itself is more than just a convenient place to find a hotel after visiting Krka. The whole of the Old Town has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and today the town is like a museum without walls – a treasure trove of art, architecture and inscriptions.

The heart of this interesting town is actually on a small islet, which lies between the mainland and Ciovo Island. Not surprisingly, therefore, Trogir was an important city throughout history for rules along the Adriatic coastline and for more than 2,000 years the Greeks, Romans, Venetians and French have fought over occupation of the city. Today, you can see the influence of all these diverse groups on the cultural heritage and buildings.

The Old Town Islet at Trogir, Croatia

The Old Town islet has one of the highest densities of churches in the world, with Romanesque, Renaissance and Baroque churches all jostling for attention amongst the older Roman, Kairos and Croatian architecture. Head first to St Lawrence Cathedral, which dates back to the 13th century, with an amazing portal from Master Radovan. There’s a small entrance fee (20kn), it’s well worth the price for both the amazing art inside the cathedral and the views from the tower. The Fortress Kamerlengo, at the north peak of the islet, is another great spot from which to admire the streets of Trogir.

The Kamerlengo Fortress and Esplanade, Trogir

Where to Eat & Sleep

If you’re looking for picnic ingredients or a meal to cook back at the campsite, the Green Market is the place to go. It’s situated just next to the bridge in the mainland part of Trogir and is packed with fresh fruit, vegetables, olive oil and rajika (the local homemade whiskey).

Bottles of travarica, a herbal rakia

For an evening out, it’s easy to find a great bar and restaurant. All the places to eat and drink are concentrated around the Riva on the islet, so simply wander around and see what catches your eye.

Unlike Pula and Zadar, Trogir is a big tourist destination in Croatia, thanks to its fascinating sights. Whilst this means it can get busy during peak seasons, it also makes finding accommodation a simple task. There are supposedly 20,000 beds here, although hotels in the Old Town islet are limited and expensive. For the best choice, drive along the main road  on the land side of town towards Seget.

Hotel Monika is a four-star hotel in the heart of Trogir Old Town. If you don’t have a car, the front desk can organize trips to the Krka Nature Park and other excursions. There are only 16 rooms in this hotel.

Stafileo Palace has affordable rooms in a 15th century protected palace. It is only 20 metres from Trogir main square. There are only 6 rooms in this hotel so book early if you want a room in this old palace.

For the complete list of Trogir hotels and apartments, see Here.

© Croatia Travel, 2012. Written by awoolliams

Post tags: Kamerlengo Fortress, Krka, National Park, Roški slap, Skradinski-buk, Trogir, UNESCO World Heritage in Categories: Destinations

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Aerial View of Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik was once a fortified city and its very well preserved city walls (Dubrovacke gradske zidine) used to protect its citizens from the many invasions over the centuries. These impregnable walls are now a symbol of the city and a major attraction for visitors.

Dubrovnik City Walls

Dubrovnik City Walls were built over a period of time from the 7th to 17th century. Measuring 1940 metres in length, the walls encircle most of Dubrovnik Old Town and were fortified by forts,  towers and bastions. Three of the five existing forts (Minceta, Bokar and St John) were built within the city walls complex. The other two, Lovrjenac in the west and Revelin in the east, are freestanding.

There are three entrances to the walls: one next to St Saviour’s Church at the Pile Gate entrance to the Old City, one next to St Luke’s Church in the east and the third next to the Maritime Museum located at St John’s Fort. Like most people, we entered the Old Town via Pile Gate, and so got onto the walls from the entrance next to St Saviour’s Church. There are some steps to climb and you buy your entry ticket from the first window up the steps.

Dubrovnik City Walls - Tony on assignment

Dubrovnik City Wall Walk

If you are planning a wall walk, start early as it does get busy later in the day. The city walls are quite wide and can accommodate plenty of visitors, but every now and then you come across a large tour group and find yourself in a little traffic jam.

Dubrovnik City Walls

From the walls you get the most magnificent views of the town and out towards the sea. At the northern point of the wall, which also happens to be the highest point of the city wall is Fort Minceta which protected the northern corridors of Dubrovnik. You can climb to the top of the fort for an even more spectacular view of the area.

Minčeta Fort - Dubrovnik City Walls

The other significant fort is St John’s Fort in the Old harbour area which is recognizable by its quadrangular pier tower. This fort protected the south-eastern entrance to the city from pirates and enemy ships. Today, St John’s Fort houses an aquarium on ground floor, and the Maritime Museum is on the first and second floors.

At the foot of St John’s Fort is a huge pier with a lighthouse – the well-known Porporela. This is a meeting place of lovers, and a favourite promenade and bathing place of locals. From Porporela you can see Fort Revelin standing just outside the city walls at the eastern entrance. Fort Revelin is now used as concert venues of the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra and the Dubrovnik Summer Festival is held here.

Dubrovnik City Walls

Dubrovnik Old Harbour

See our Dubrovnik City Walls photos Here.

© Croatia Travel, 2012. Written by Helen Page

Post tags: dubrovnik city walls, dubrovnik old town, dubrovnik photos, dubrovnik tours, dubrovnik wall walk, dubrovnik walls in Categories: Sightseeing

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Big Fountain of Onofrio

Contained within the medieval city walls of Dubrovnikare the monuments and sights that tell of the history of its beautiful Old Town (Stari Grad). Starting from the Pile Gate, we take a walking tour down the Stradun and the other narrow streets of the Old Town to see some of the Dubrovnik’s most important monuments and to get a feel for this historical city.

Dubrovnik Attractions

Great Onofrio Fountain
This interesting fountain is just next to the Pile Gate and is a good meeting point. It was built by Onofrio della Cava to commemorate the completion of the new waterworks in 1438.  The waterworks supplied the city with water from the Dubrovnik River, 12 kilometres away.

Franciscan Monastery
Just across from the Fountain is this 1317 monastery.  Within the monastery is a pharmacy which was founded at the same time as the monastery, making it one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe. The monastery library is also noted to be one of the most important old libraries in Croatia and in the world.

Stradun (officially called the Placa)
This central stone street of the Old City was built in 1667 after the great earthquake destroyed the city.  Walking down the Stradun, imagine what it was like before the earthquake, when it was lined with lovely and luxurious palaces.

Dubrovnik Old Town

Orlando’s Column
Near the Clock Tower in the Square of the Loggia is a stone column with the figure of a medieval warrior bearing a sword and shield standing on a pedestal. Orlando’s statue is a symbol of the freedom of Dubrovnik and the flag of the Republic always flies on top of this column.

At the base of Orlando’s Column is a line measuring 51.2 cm. People used this to measure their textile purchase here to make sure that they have not been ripped off.

As you stroll down the Stradun, don’t forget to look at some of the side lanes off the Stradun that lead to the upper level of the Old Town. One particular lane was decorated with beautiful plants and was a feature of our city walk.

Dubrovnik Old Town

The Rector’s Palace
Turing right, at the end of the Stradun is the Rector’s Palace. This is where the highest level of city government met.  The Dubrovnik Rector lived here, without his family, for the duration of his office which is limited to one month. Except for official business, he was not permitted to leave the palace. The rector was also responsible for the keys to the city.  Each evening a special ceremony was held in which he accepted the keys to the city gates and was responsible for ensuring that no one could enter into the town through the night.

The Sponza Palace
At the end of the Stradun is the Sponza Palace. This combination Gothic and Renaissance style palace was originally intended to be a custom’s housewhere traded goods from all over the world were brought here to be taxed. During its days, the palace courtyard and all the arcades were abuzz with traders and business people meeting here.

Sponza Palace

Cathedral and Treasury
Further along from the Rector’s Palace is the baroque Dubrovnik Cathedral with its great dome. Next to the church is the Cathedral Treasury which is famous for its collection of reliquaries and also a collection of sacred objects in gold.

Bokar Fortress
The purpose of this fortress was to defend the main entrance gates, drawbridge and moat at Pile.

Fort of St. John
The fort was the main defence for the city port and one of the most important defence fortresses of the city. This is a beautiful side of the city and definitely worth making your way to.  The Ploce Gate is also at this eastern end of the city.

Dubrovnik Old Port

Other Sites and Monuments of Interest

Other significant places of interest and monuments include the Dominican Monastery, Church of St. Blaise, Clock Tower and the Square of the Loggia.

Our two-day visit doesn’t really do Dubrovnik justice and one could easily spend a week here and not run out of things to see.

See our Dubrovnik photos at Travelsignposts Dubrovnik photo gallery Here.

© Croatia Travel, 2012. Written by Helen Page

Post tags: big fountain, dubrovnik attractions, dubrovnik old town, Onofrio Fountain, things to do in dubrovnik, what to do in dubrovnik, what to see in dubrovnik in Categories: Featured, Sightseeing

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Aerial view of Dubrovnik's Old Town

The remarkably well-preserved medieval walled city of Dubrovnik enjoys accolades like the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ and ‘Jewel in Croatia’s Crown’.  As they say – a picture paints a thousand words – and it’s easy to see from the above image why Dubrovnik is a popular holiday destination for independent travellers, coach tours as well as cruise ships.

Visiting Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is situated on the Dalmatian coast and the Old Town (Stari Grad) is what most tourists come to see.  There are two main gates – Pile and Ploce, and entry to the old fortified city centre is via the Pile Gate on the western side.  To reach the Gate, we walked across a small stone bridge which was once a crossing over a moat.  Above the arch of the gate is a small statue of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, whose statue you’ll see in many places about town.  Once you enter the gate of the Old City, all the beautiful monuments and treasures of Dubrovnik Old Town are conveniently contained within the magnificent city wall.

Pile Gate takes us onto the Stradun (also known as Placa), the main street which crosses the Old Town from west to east.  This central stone street was built in 1667 after the great earthquake destroyed the city. We had arrived in Dubrovnik early in the morning and the Stradun was nice and peaceful.  Many of the shops were still shut, and a few were just struggling to open.  But the peace and quiet didn’t last for long.  By 11 am hoards of tourists were already pouring into the Old Town, many of whom were probably from the cruise ships that we saw on our way in.  Dubrovnik gets very hectic during the summer cruising season and we’re here experiencing it.

Big Fountain of Onofrio, Dubrovnik

What to See in Dubrovnik

Along the Stradun and up to the harbour are many of  the main Dubrovnik attractions such as the Big Fountain of Onofrio, Franciscan Monastery, Orlando’s Column and Sponza Plaza. There are so many things to see in Dubrovnik,  and as we only have two days in Dubrovnik, we had to crank up our pace and not be distracted by the shops, a weakness of mine, although I did managed to squeeze in some time to buy a ring.

By mid-afternoon we thought that we’d earned a coffee break so we stopped at the Gradskavana Cafe, an old-world Viennese style coffee house, just off the Stradun.  Just as we were relaxing into our cup of coffee and a nice Viennese-type pastry, drums, trumpets and a lot of noise broke out in the square.  A local ceremony had just begun in the front of the town hall and young men dressed in colourful costumes were performing some kind of watch guards parade.  We were lucky to have seen this parade as it added some rich colour to our photos.

Dubrovnik Town Ceremony

Finding your way around Dubrovnik is easy as the streets are laid out in a grid.  There are many side streets to explore at ground level and there is also another layer of Dubrovnik to explore on the upper levels. If you only have limited time here, it’s worthwhile doing a Walking Tour of the Old Town and getting an insider’s view of this historical city.

By the end of Day 1 we had already seen a lot of this beautiful city and loved the feel of the place. You can see our Dubrovnik photos Here.

What to Do in Dubrovnik

One of the main things to do in Dubrovnik is to walk the Old City Wall, which we left to Day 2 of our visit.  It takes time to walk from the entrance to the exit and during the peak tourist season it is very busy up there.

From Dubrovnik, it’s also possible to do a day trip to Montenegro, visit the island of Korcula, or visit one of the charming villages for a taste of some Dalmatian produce.
For the complete list of Tours from Dubrovnik, see Here.

Dubrovnik City Walls

Where to Eat

There is no problem finding places to eat in Dubrovnik. During our exploration of the city, we saw many cafes and restaurants about. Due to its coastal location, there’s plenty of seafood on offer in Dubrovnik and along the upper level of the town there are more seafood restaurants.  Pressed for time, we had a pizza and tomato salad at one of the cafes in a side street and were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the pizza.  The tomatoes were absolutely delicious and some of the best I’ve tasted.  Needless to say, we came back for more the next day.

Hotels in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik gets very busy during the peak summer season and it can be difficult to get affordable accommodation close to the centre during this season, unless you book in advance.

For a central hotel in the Old Town, it’s hard to beat the Baroque Pucic Palace. This 18th-century hotel is right next to the limestone-paved Stradun.

Due to the limited land in the Old Town you won’t find flashy high-rise hotels here, but if you are after an apartment, there are many nice ones around. You can check out the complete list of Dubrovnik hotels Here.

© Croatia Travel, 2012. Written by Helen Page

Post tags: croatia travel, dubrovnik apartments, dubrovnik attractions, dubrovnik hotels, dubrovnik old town, things to do in dubrovnik, what to do in dubrovnik, what to see in dubrovnik in Categories: Destinations, Featured

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History and beautiful coastlines in Zadar

A Wave Organ, Romanesque churches, marble steets – Zadar makes an unmissable stopover!

After a fantastic few days in Pula, we headed to the third destination on our road trip through Croatia – Zadar. A little further south down the coast, Zadar is a historic town in Northern Dalmatia.

With its quiet marble streets and historic air, it’s another stunning setting for a stopover on the journey south. Like Pula, the town is full of Roman ruins, but in Zadar there are also more than 30 beautiful Romanesque churches and some very cool art installations. Add in easy access to the unspoilt pine beaches and breathtaking islands of the Dalmatian coast and you’ve got the perfect holiday destination!

Getting There

It’s around 350 km from Pula to Zadar, which translates to around a 4 hour 30 min drive. This is one of the most scenic parts of the whole trip, whether you choose to take the coast or mountain route.

First, head back inland to Rijeka. From there, you can decide to drive either the A8 all the way along the edge of the sea to Zadar for coastal and island views or take a slight detour inland for the A1 toll road through the mountains.

Driving through the mountains in Croatia

Things to See

Start your tour of Zadar at the Sea Organ, a unique, experimental art installation of pipes under the marble steps of the promenade. When the water is calm, soft chords emerge from the natural instrument – but when the waves are choppy, the sound is rather more menacing! The same artist (Nikola Bašic) also created Monument to the Sun, which is a huge solar-powered installation that becomes a sparkling disco ball as the sun sets.

Monument to the Sun

From these stunning modern pieces, move on to the more classical reminders of Zadar’s history. One of the oldest attractions is the Roman Forum, which is an interesting spot even though only a few columns can be seen here today.

The 12th Century cathedral is an impressive sight, with a traditional style that’s reminiscent of churches in Paris or Tuscany and a bell tower that you can climb for wonderful views over the marble streets. History and architecture buffs will love exploring the many churches around Zadar, but if you only have time for a little more exploring, St Simeon and St Mary’s are two of the best examples. Inside, these two churches also boast exhibitions of hand crafted silver and gold reliquary which adds to the interest.

Cathedral of St. Anastasia

After a long morning of wandering the city streets, you’ll find a great place to relax at Kolovare Beach. The closest stretch of sand to the town centre, Kolovare is a big favourite with locals after work and on the weekends.

Day Trips

Thanks to its harbour, Zadar is the perfect base for exploring the rugged nearby islands. Take the ferry to Dugi Otok (60 minutes) for gorgeous turquoise bays with crystal clear waters and white sand and unspoilt old towns such as Sali. From Sali, you can cruise further out to sea to Kornati National Park, a scattering of small islands topped only by rocky coves and konobas (remote, rustic restaurants) for a fresh, traditional lunch.

With the car at your disposal, you’re also perfectly placed in Zadar for an afternoon drive to the breathtaking Plitvice Lakes National Park. About an hour out of town, you’ll find mountains, stunning blue-green lakes and amazing waterfalls waiting to be explored.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

What to Eat

Like Pula, Zadar is home to lots of fish restaurants and the catch is guaranteed to be both local and fresh. There’s no need to look for elaborate dishes – the simple grilled fish plates accompanied by mlinci (roasted flat bread) and summery salads are a taste of local heaven.

Like many lively Croatian towns, Zadar has a buzzing cafe culture where it’s a joy to sit and watch the world go buy with a cup of coffee or a stronger drink when the sun goes down. The pavement cafes are also the ideal place for al fresco dessert and ice cream after a restaurant meal!

Where to Sleep

Zadar has plenty of reasonably priced places to stay around town, including apartments where you’ll find privacy and luxuries like shared swimming pools for a bargain. The further along the coast (and out of town) you go, the accommodation tends to be more luxurious and expensive because of their proximity to the beaches. If you’re travelling solo or on a tight budget, the cheapest option is the friendly Youth Hostel (Obala kneza Trpimira 78) near the marina in Borik.

For a night that’s all about style and history, however, you can’t beat the boutique Hotel Bastion for sheer class. Built into the battlements of a 13th Century Venetian fortress, the rooms are seriously chic and you’ll be sleeping in a genuine historical monument to top off the experience.

Back to Part 1 of my Road Trip Through Croatia

© Croatia Travel, 2012. Written by awoolliams

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View of Pula, Croatia

After a few days of culture in Zagreb, it was time to hit the road for the second destination on our route. Just across the Mediterranean from Italy, Pula is a hidden gem on the Istrian peninsula. This  fascinating historic coastal town is full of Roman ruins and surrounded by the typical rocky coves and pine groves of the Istria region.

Getting There

It’s about 300 km and a three hour drive from Zagreb to Pula and the route is easy to follow along main roads. After leaving the capital, you’ll find yourself on the A1 driving through some lovely mountain scenery. Next, follow the A6 to Rijeka and then the A7, A8 and A9 across the peninsula. All these roads are tolls but they’re not expensive for the convenience they provide!

This cool time lapse video shows the whole route and gives you a taste of what to expect from the drive:

Things to See

As the location is so close to Italy, it’s not much of a surprise to see that Istria was conquered by the Romans in ancient times. Today, the results of the region’s past are some amazing ruins and interesting local cuisine that differs from elsewhere in Croatia.

Start your tour of Pula at the Roman amphitheatre, which is the sixth largest surviving arena of its kind. Towering over nearby buildings, the dramatic ruins are a beautiful reminder of one of the most popular aspects of Roman life. Although many of the stones have been stolen over the years to build local houses, the Colosseum is still remarkably well preserved. An affordable ticket (20kn) will get you entry to both the arena and the caves beneath.

The impressive Amphitheatre at Pula - "The Arena"

Pula’s famous landmark is more than just a ruin, though – The Arena (as it’s known) hosts a film festival in July each year and concerts from big names in the music world, including Pavarotti and Elton John!

The Roman Forum – or market place – is also well worth a visit. The main square in the modern city, it was built on the site of the original market place and is still home to the Temple of Augustus and a 10th Century city hall. As you wander around the streets nearby, more monuments, such as the Gate of Hercules and the Golden Gate, wait to be discovered and add to the historic atmosphere.

If all this culture has piqued your interest, head to the Archaeology Museum (entry – 12kn) to learn more about the history of Istria and discover treasures and artefacts which have been found nearby over the years.

Day Trips

Roman villa in Veliki Brijun

With a car at your disposal, take a drive to the small town of  Fažana and then hop on a boat to Brijuni, a group of 14 islands famed for their beauty. Now a Croatian National Park, they were once part of the Republic of Venice and a playground for Europe’s ancient Royals.

Nowadays, you can explore two of the islands for more fascinating ruins and great beaches. On the largest island, Veliki Brijun, over 200 dinosaur footprints have also been discovered and it’s easy to see how – Brijuni has a wild, elemental feel, despite the new holiday resorts which have sprung up along the coastline.

For more stunning scenery and unspoiled beaches, head south (about 10 km) to the southernmost tip of Istria known as Cape Kamenjak. The drive alone, following the coast past Premantura (another picturesque stopover), will be a highlight of your road trip in Croatia.

Beach on Cape Kamenjak, Croatia

What to Eat

Istria has its own cuisine, with influences from Italy and Austro-Hungarian princes. As a result, there are a large number of pizzerias in town and it’s an interesting experience to try a Croatian version of this signature Italian food!

As you’d expect from a coastal town, seafood also dominates the menus, with Frogfish, sea bass and clams the most popular dishes with the locals. Kvarner scampi – caught in the Adriatic – is a sought-after delicacy both in Croatia and Pula is the perfect place to sample these unusual prawns.

Local wine is another speciality that can’t be missed in Istria – it’s the leading producer of Croatia’s best wines! Try a glass of red Teran or the white Malvasia with your dinner.

Where to Sleep

For crumbling grandeur and a taste of Pula’s history, the Hotel Riviera - originally built for high ranking Austro-Hungarian officials – is perfect. Inside, it’s a little dated compared to the impressive exterior but the rooms do the job.

Pula Art Hostel, meanwhile, is a good budget choice but most travellers find rooms and apartments offer the best accommodation options. Locals gather at the bus, ferry and rail terminals to advertise and it’s easy to find a place and a price to suit you.

See Part 3 of my Road Trip Through Croatia

© Croatia Travel, 2012. Written by awoolliams

Post tags: Arena, Brijuni, Croatia, film festival, Pula, Roman amphitheatre, Temple of Augustus in Categories: Destinations

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Croatia is one of those rare countries in Europe that’s yet to fully make it onto the tourist map. Although the beautiful  beaches of the Dalmatian Coast attract international visitors during the summer, much of this fascinating place remains unexplored. I took a road trip through the back roads of Croatia to explore one of Europe’s hidden gems.

The Route

Zagreb – Pula – Zadar – Trogir – Krka National Park – Split – Korcula – Dubrovnik

Filling up on the road

The Car

Although it was a little cramped at times, we squeezed five of us into my trusty old Volkswagon and set off across Europe! Apart from a brief stutter in Germany (where there are, handily, tons of VW garages…), we had great fortune with our wheeled companion, even though the Croats like to drive rather erratically.

The Roads

Croatia is a well developed country with an easy to use network of motorways that whizz you from one city to another. Where it narrows in the south, however, it’s worth remembering that there’s only one main road (the A1) which can get very busy in peak times.

The larger highways also often require a toll like many countries in Europe, so it’s handy to keep some kuna (Croatian currency) ready for this. Off the beaten track, the roads are smaller but still well surfaced and easy to navigate with a map or GPS – and the scenery can be stunning.

Starting off in Zagreb

Orientation

Like most capital cities, Zagreb is a big, sprawling urban area that’s not particularly car friendly. It does, however, provide the perfect starting point for a road trip because almost all the autocesta (motorways) in Croatia start or end at the city.

In the city itself, it’s advisable to leave your car at your hotel and take advantage of Zagreb’s excellent public transport network, where trams run 24 hours a day. Tickets for the buses and trams can be bought cheaply in bulk from newspaper kiosks or from the driver, but make sure you punch the ticket to validate it once you get on the tram. Don’t be tempted to ignore this rule and re-use the ticket as the offence carries a hefty fine. Dvertna karta (24 hour tickets) can also be bought if you plan of doing lots of transport.

Trams in Jelacic Square - Zagreb

Where to stay

Hotels and hostels are usually cheaper outside of the city centre, but thanks to those 24 hour trams, it’s never a hassle to find your way back to where you’re sleeping. Dorm beds are the best budget option, starting from the bargain price of 100 kuna per night.

For a touch of history, try Hotel Jägerhorn (Ilica 14), the oldest hotel in Zagreb which dates back to 1827. If you want to splash out, the Regent Esplanade Zagreb (Mihanovićeva 1) is a magnificent building with a ballroom that was very popular with travellers on the Orient Express from Paris to Istanbul at the turn of the century.

Sightseeing

Zagreb is packed with history, culture and interesting architecture that mixes medieval roots with grand Viennese squares and cobbled streets. The city is divided into the Upper Town (the medieval heart) and the newer Lower Town extends south of the vast Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica (Jelacic Square) to the railway station and the Sava River.

Zagreb funicular to Gradec

Start your sightseeing in the historic Upper Town, which itself is divided into two parts – Gradec (the upper) and Kaptol (the lower). Engraved with the names of dead, the Old Town Gate divides these two areas and is a poignant reminder of Croatia’s troubled past. From here, you can take the funicular to Gradec to the 13th Century Lotrščak Tower. At the top of the tower is the Gric canon, which is fired ceremoniously at noon every day – it’s quite a shock to hear the blast the first day you’re in the city.

In the Old Town, you’ll also see the unusual St Mark’s Church, a historic 13th Century building with rather eye catching roof tiles shaped in a mosaic. They’re laid out as the Zagreb city coat of arms and the ancient flag of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia.

The unusual Church of St Mark

Down in Kaptol stands the magnificent Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, a brooding Gothic church with twin spires and marble interiors. If you want to shop, there’s only one destination – Dolac Market, the huge, colourful open-air market north of Jelacic Square that must be one of the best in Europe.

Dolac market - Zagreb

Arguably the best museum in the city, Umjetnički Paviljon (Art Pavilion, Trg Kralja Tomislava) is a landmark itself. Designed by famous Viennese theatre designers, it’s a grand and imposing building with top quality exhibitions inside. From here, you can wander around the European influenced squares and streets of the Lower Town, which have a graceful feel.

The grand Art Pavilion - Umjetnicki Paviljon

If you’re looking for something a little unusual, head over to the award winning Museum of Broken Relationships (Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2). This innovative exhibit offers a journey through the leftovers of love collected from around the world. Mirogoj, the impressive city cemetery, is also well worth a visit. With the Church of Christ the King, crumbling tombs of notable Croats and picturesque arcades, it’s a hidden gem that you can get lost in for hours.

For the best views over the city, climb Medvednica, the mountain which looms over Zagreb. At the top, there’s a  historic fortress to explore and a handful of cafes where you can get refreshed and marvel at the vast city spread out below you.

Eating and Drinking

Zagreb has a buzzing cafe culture, especially on Saturday mornings. Take a seat at one of the pavement tables in the roads surrounding Jelacic Square and order a crna kava, a strong local coffee, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere of the city. This area is also the best place to look for street food and budget eats, with everything from kebabs to take away pancakes on the menus.

Cafe culture

Get your first tastes of traditional Croatian food on the road trip at Mali Medo (Tkalčićeva 36), an affordable and lively restaurant with good local beer and specials such as ćevapčići and gulaš.

There are also a large number of pubs and bars around Jelacic Square and Cvjetni Trg, many of which have live music at the weekends and pavement tables to add to the ambiance.

In the summer, the locals head south of the city to Lake Jarun (tram 5 or 17) to cool off for a lunchtime snack or evening drink. Trendy bars line the shores and shingle beaches and offer a great spot to people watch and unwind. Strossmayer šetalište (Strossmayer’s Walkway) is another popular meeting place with cafes, artists and a great view of the Lower Town.

See Part 2 of my Road Trip Through Croatia

© Croatia Travel, 2012. Written by awoolliams

Post tags: Art Pavilion, Croatia, Dolac market, Gradec, Hrvatska, Jelacic Square, Kaptol, Lake Jarunfunicular, Lotrščak Tower, Medvednica, Old Town Gate, road trip, St Mark's Church, Zagreb in Categories: Destinations

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Finding a Croatia phone number or phone code on line is simply a matter of going to the Hrvatski Telecom phone book, which provides Croatia phone numbers, residential and business information.

The country calling phone code of Croatia is 385, and you omit the "0" of the area code when dialling from outside the country. You don’t have to dial the area phone code when calling within a local area in Croatia. There are four mobile (cell) phone operators: VIPnet: 91; Tomato: 92; Tele2: 95; T-Mobile: 98, 99.

Free telephone number search

HRVATSKI TELECOM
http://imenik.tportal.hr/show?lang=en&action=pretraga: Telefonski imenik is the white pages telephone directory for people and businesses in Croatia. It includes reverse search (search by number) and also yellow pages classified search (just choose one of the tabs). Results have links to maps (click on address to see). It’s in English (one of thirteen languages!), choose from the links top right.

© Croatia Travel, 2009. Written by Tony Page

Post tags: croatia phone book, croatia phone code, croatia phone number in Categories: Useful facts

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Croatia's World Heritage Plitvice Lakes National Park

In the dense forests within the National Park, there is a huge range of flora and fauna, including wolves, foxes, wild boar, wild cats, etc. Fortunately, or unfortunately, we didn’t encounter any of these furry animals. Some 160 species of bird life have been recorded, including eagles, falcons and peregrines.

Visiting the Park

You can walk around the lakes by following the paths and in some sections there are nicely laid timber walkways. Electric buses are available to take walkers to the starting points of the trails or to take people back to their hotels in the park. With the exception of some hotels, there are no towns or villages in the reserve, keeping the area pristine.

There are two entrances to the lake. When we visited, our electric bus took us to the top of the waterfalls for a view. We then did a 3 km. walk downhill, around the shores of the lake, to where our boat was waiting for us. When I first learnt of the 3 km walk, I was a little concerned for some of the older people in the group, but everyone made it without problems.

Along the walk, the scenery was fabulous. There were large and little waterfalls, streams and lakes, and apart from the gushing water, the atmosphere was so serene. Our electric boat took us on a scenic ride across the lake. We had a stop at a picnic location where there were wooden stalls selling some local handicraft, food and cheese. The gift shop there had espresso coffee which was rather good and a pleasant surprise for coffee addicts. When we reached the other end of the lake, we walked back up to the largest waterfall for a view and then it was uphill and back to where our bus was waiting.

In all it took 3 hours.  It was a very pleasant sightseeing experience with a difference and also got us some much needed exercise!

© Croatia Travel, 2009. Written by Helen Page

Post tags: Croatia holiday, electric boats, electric bus, flora and fauna, Plitvice Lakes National Park, Sightseeing Croatia, UNESCO World Heritage Sight in Categories: Featured, Sightseeing

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Bottles of Travarica, a herbal rakia

What to Buy?

Embroidery is a typical craft that is carried out throughout the peninsula.  A characteristic design is red geometric patterns stitched onto a white background.  You’ll see these designs on table clothes, pillowcases and blouses.  Similar patterns and colours can be seen on hand-painted ceramics.  Both the embroidery and hand-painted ceramic are very attractive and make good presents.

Pag Lace dates back to the Renaissance, but it was only in the early 20th century that this handiwork became famous.

It all started when a noblewoman gave a beautifully decorated blouse to Marie Josephine, the Archduchess of Austria.  The Archduchess liked the blouse so much that she personally went to Pag to order more lace clothing.  During that period, trends were set by the Austrian court and from then on Pag lace decorated the clothes of empresses and princesses throughout Europe.

This amazingly intricate lace is produced using an ordinary mending needle.  It’s produced only on Pag Island where you can still see older women at work. There is also a Pag Museum on the island.  Pag lace can be found in the more upmarket souvenir shops throughout Croatia.

The Cravat, a Croatian invention

Did you know that Croatia is the home of the cravat?  During the bloody 30 Years’ War in Europe in the 17th century Croatian cavalrymen wore scarfs to distinguish themselves from other soldiers.  The French referred to the Croatian scarf as “a la cravate”, meaning “in the Croatian way”, hence the commencement of the fashion.

This accessory was once the rage of Louis XIV’s court at Versailles. Unfortunately, the cravat wasn’t in vogue when we were in Croatia and only ties could be seen in the men’s clothing shops.  However, fashions come and go and no doubt cravats will take their place in fashion again.  If you happen to be in Croatia at that time you can claim to have bought your cravat from its country of origin.

Rakija or Croatian wine

With the ban on liquids on flights, wines are more difficult to transport home these days.  However, if you’re arriving by ship or train, then you’re in luck.  By far the most popular Croatian rakija is travarica which is made from grape brandy that has been allowed to infuse in an assortment of herbs. There could be up to 20 different types of herbs added to their flavour. Rosemary, chamomile, lavender, rose hips, matgrass, juniper, thyme, currants, mint or sage are some of the more common ingredients. There are also rakija made from plums, carob and even mistletoe.

So when a Croatian wine producer says that his wine has a “bouquet of mellon, smoke and vanilla notes that play up the jammy blackberry fruit, finished with hints of dried spices and coffee …..” he means it literally!  I haven’t tasted these herb wines but would imagine they’d taste a little strange if you’re only used to straight bordeau, shiraz, cabernet, merlot, etc.

Travarica is produced commercially but the best and strongest is homemade. You can find the commercial variety in supermarkets and homemade travarica in many open air markets or carts like in this photo.

In Dubrovnik, there are lots of shops in the Old Town selling anything from gifts, handicraft, t-shirts, scarves, jewelry, etc. I managed to find myself a very nice ring and the price was very reasonable.

In Zagreb, the capital city, the shops are in the main street in town.  This is where the shopping centres are.

© Croatia Travel, 2009. Written by Helen Page

Post tags: cravat, Croatia shopping, Croatian wine, Dubrovnik, embroidery, hand-painted ceramics, jewelry, Pag lace, rakija, Zagreb in Categories: Featured, Shopping

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