The Iconic Venice Gondolas

Usually held on the third Saturday in July, the already busy lagoons of Venice burst into a hive of activity.  Fleets of boats and gondolas decorated with colourful balloons, lanterns and streamers gather in the canal in front of Piazza San Marco.  Venice celebrates the Festa del Redentore (Feast of the Redemption), one of its most treasured festivals in Venice’s calender of events.

Festa del Redentore Program

Saturday – July 14, 2012:
The build-up to the festivities begins on Saturday with the assembly of a “Thanksgiving Bridge” made from gondolas lined together across the lagoon from Zattere to the Church of Redentore on the island of Giudecca.  This is Venice’s modern-day adaptation of a vow that was made in 1576.

In the boats people eat traditional foods and wait patiently for the fireworks display.  The big spectacle begins at 11.30 pm when the huge display of fireworks explodes across the skies, illuminating the entire city, and lasting until after midnight.  St. Mark’s Square and its historical landmark buildings take on a multi-colour hue as each explosion of fireworks lights the skies.

This spectacular firework display is a huge tourist attraction and a free Venice event for all to enjoy.  You can bring your bottle of vino and food and join the locals in this celebration.

Sunday – July 15, 2012:
The Redentore Regattas take place this afternoon.  Today is also the religious part of the Redentore. Holy Mass is held at the Church of the Redentore in the presence of the Patriarch, followed by a religious procession.

Festa del Redentore’s historical backdrop

Behind this colourful celebration, there is a grim historical event.  The plague in Europe spread through the city, causing terrible loss of lives in  the three years from 1575 and 1577.  The high density of the population made the situation worse and almost 50,000 died, which was more than a third of the city’s inhabitants.

On September 4, 1576, the Senate decided that the Doge should announce the Vow to erect a church dedicated to the Redentore (Redeemer), in return for help in ending the plague.  They also promised to make a procession to the church on the third weekend of July.

Sant Agnese in Agone by Lalupa/Wiki

In the heart of historic Rome is Piazza Navona, one of the city’s most beautiful Baroque piazzas. One of the impressive buildings that make up Piazza Navona’s Baroque architecture is Sant’Agnese in Agone.

Sant’Agnese in Agone is a church dedicated to St Agnes, a young girl who became a martyr in AD304. There are many versions of stories in regard to her martyrdom, some rather gory, but given the period of her martyrdom none of the legends has been verified.  Sant’Agnese in Agone stands on the site where it is believed that St Agnese died.

The Pamphili Family Church

Sant’Agnese in Agone was built in the mid-17th century under the patronage of Pope Innocent X. Adjacent to Sant’Agnese in Agone is the Palazzo Pamphili, residence of the Pamphili family.  Sant’Agnese in Agone became the Pamphili family chapel and there was even an opening formed in the drum of the dome so that the family could take part in religious services from their palace.

A number of architects were involved in the construction of Sant’Agnese in Agone, starting with Girolamo Rainaldi (a Pamphili family architect) and his son Carlo. They were replaced by Borromini and later on Bernini was commissioned to take over. Bernini’s much-admired Fountain of the Four Rivers is in front of the church.

Music in Bernini’s Rome

The times we’ve been to Piazza Navona, Sant’Agnese in Agone was wrapped in scaffolding and it’s good to know that the church has now been returned to its original splendour.  Sant’Agnese in Agone hosts the Music in Bernini’s Rome event where visitors can enjoy a tour of the church and then enjoy music by the great composers of Bernini’s time, including Frescobaldi, Monteverdi, Caccini, Falconieri and others.

Classictic are the online agents for Music in Bernini’s Rome and you can book your tour HERE.

Address:
Sant’Agnese in Agone
Piazza Navona
00186 Rome

Map of Rome:

Teatro di Marcello - Photo by MM/Wiki

Long before the Teatro di Marcello (Theatre of Marcellus) was completed, tragedy and drama had already played out at this open-air theatre in Rome.

Teatro Marcello was the plan of Julius Caesar but he was murdered in 44BC and the construction of the theatre remained incomplete. When Emperor Augustus inherited the project, he named it after his nephew Marcus Marcellus, but the young Marcellus died in 23BC before the Theatre of Marcellus was finished.

Teatro Marcello was finally completed in 13BC and was inaugurated by Emperor Augustus. It had capacity to hold 11,000 spectators and locals and visitors were able to watch drama and singing performances in the theatre. Teatro Marcello is huge, even by today’s standards, and its construction set the stage for this form of architecture in the Roman world.

Portico di Ottavia

Next to the Teatro Marcello is the Porticus Octaviae, the oldest quadriportico or four-sided porch in Rome. This was built by Emperor Augustus who named it after his sister Octavia Minor or Octavia the Younger. Supported by 300 columns, this vast rectangular portico, included within its colonnaded walks the Temples of Jupiter Stator and Juno Regina, numerous statues and a library erected by Octavia in memory of her son Claudius Marcellus. From the Middle Ages until the end of the 19th century, this once grand portico was used as part of the city’s fish market. The annexed Sant’Angelo in Pescheria church (St Angelus in the Fish Market) is reminder of the fish market function of the portico.

Teatro Marcello Post the Roman Empire

Portico di Ottavia - Photo by Mac9/Wiki

In the early Middle Ages, the Fabii patrician family used the Theatre of Marcellus as a fortress. In the following centuries, Teatro Marcello was occupied by a succession of rich and aristocratic families and was also converted into a Renaissance palazzo by Baldassare Peruzzi.

Centuries on, the classical form of the Teatro di Marcello not only left its influence on Roman architecture but also influenced architects like Sir Christopher Wren. Wren’s design of the Sheldonian Theatre in Oxford was influenced by this ancient Roman edifice.

Roman Nights at the Teatro di Marcello

Today’s visitors to the Teatro di Marcello, can see the different layers of history in this magnificent structure. The high arches of the ancient theatre are topped by medieval fortified walls and then there’s the more elegant aspects of the Renaissance palazzo. In the summer months, visitors can enjoy classical concerts in this historic venue. See what’s on and book your concert tickets HERE.

How to get to the Teatro di Marcello

The Area Archeologica del Teatro di Marcello is situated in Rome on Via del Teatro di Marcello 44, downhill from the Capitol, on the way to the Mouth of Truth.

Address:
Area Archeologica del Teatro di Marcello
Via del Teatro di Marcello, 44
Rome

Map of Rome:

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj Courtyard

For artlovers, a visit to Palazzo Doria Pamphilj in Piazza del Collegio Romano is a must. Within the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is Rome’s richest private art collection.  The art collection in Galleria Doria Pamphilj has been accumulated over 500 years.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is the grand and stately home of the Landi, Aldobrandini, Doria and Pamphilj families who were brought together through the union of marriage. For simplicity, the family now uses the Doria Pamphilj name. The oldest part of the Palazzo dates to 1435, but the current structure of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is mainly the efforts of the current owners, the Doria Pamphilj family.

The exterior of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is deceiving as the dull-coloured building hides the treasures that are contained within the Palace.  Palazzo Doria Pamphilj has been home to princes, princesses and popes since the 16th century. Visitors to the Palazzo will see grand apartments, plush decoration, furniture and artwork befitting of the nobility. There is even a Throne Room (Sala del Trono) in which the throne is only turned to face the room during a papal visit.

Galleria Doria Pamphilj

Whilst the Palazzo’s apartments and decorations are themselves works of art, Palazzo Doria Pamphilj houses the greatest private collection of artwork in Rome. In the Galleria Doria Pamphilj are 400 paintings by master artists such as Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael, Tintoretto, Bernini and Velazquez.

Caravaggio - Flight into Egypt

The Galleria consists of 12 rooms that are covered floor-to-ceiling with paintings. The Aldobrandini Room and Primitives Room are where the masterpieces of the Doria Pamphilj family are kept. In the Aldobrandini Room, look for Titian’s Salomè con la testa del Battista (Salome with the Head of John the Baptist) and Caravaggio masterpieces, Riposso durante la fuga in Egitto (Rest During the Flight into Egypt) and Maddalene Penitente (Penitent Magdalen).

In the Velázquez Room is the portrait of Pope Innocent X. This Velázquez painting is the most important painting in the Doria Pamphilj collection and a special room was built for it.  Although, it seems that the Pope did not like the painting, complaining that it was too real an image of him.

Guided Tour of Doria Pamphilj and Concert

You can also take a guided tour through the Doria Pamphilj Palace and enjoy a live concert in the magnificent Sala del Trono (Throne room). ‘Sounds and Visions of Caravaggio’ is a Saturday morning concert series which combines Early Art and Music in Rome. The musicians will perform on historical instruments of Caravaggio’s time, and these instruments can be seen in many Caravaggio paintings.  For concert dates and booking information see HERE.

Getting to Palazzo Doria Pamphilj

The entrance is from Via del Corso 305, only a short distance from Piazza Venezia.  The closest metro is Colosseo and from here you can catch bus No 85 or 850. Get off where Via del Corso crosses Via dei SS. Apostles. The entrance is on the opposite side of the street.

With your entry fee is an excellent audioguide narrated by Jonathan Pamphilj. He brings Palazzo Doria Pamphilj alive with family anecdotes and background information.

Address
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
Via del Corso 305
00186 Rome

Villa Farnesina - Renaissance Rome

Rome’s Campo de’ Fiori is an area that is well-known for its Renaissance architecture. In Renaissance Rome, many of Rome’s powerful families built their palazzi and huge villas here as it was near the route of papal possessions. One non-Roman who built a villa in Campo de’ Fiori was Agostino Chigi, a wealthy Sienese banker. In 1508, Chigi commissioned  Baldassarre Peruzzi, an architect from Sienna, to build Villa Farnesina, a building that’s renowned for its Renaissance artwork.

Renaissance Artwork in Villa Farnesina

Villa Farnesina’s simple design, a central block and two projecting wings, is believed to be one of the earliest true Renaissance villas. However, it is the  Renaissance artwork within the building that Villa Farnesina is famous for.   Chigi was one of the richest men during the period and he commissioned Renaissance artists such as Raphael, Piombo and others to decorate his villa.

Peruzzi Frescoes

Baldassarre Peruzzi was not only an architect, he was a painter as well. Some of the frescoes in Villa Farnesina were created by Peruzzi himself, including the famous Salone delle Prospettive – this fresco gives the viewer an illusion of looking out into views of Rome, through marble columns. In the Room of Galatea is a fresco of Perseus beheading Medusa, one of Peruzzi’s mythological frescoes.

Triumph of Galatea by Raphael

Raphael Paintings

The most famous frescoes in Villa Farnesina are those of Raphael, one of the great masters of the High Renaissance period. Cupid and Psyche and the Triumph of Galatea are just a couple of Raphael masterpieces that can be seen here.

Agostina Chigi and his Villa Farnesina

Chigi was no ordinary wealthy banker. He lent huge sums of money to the Popes and in return he received lucrative monopolies of the Papal States, such as the salt monopoly and alum. He was particularly close with Pope Julius II and became his treasurer. At Villa Farnesina Chigi hosted many cardinals, princes and the Pope himself. The villa became the property of the Farnese family in 1577, hence the name Farnesina. At one stage Michelangelo, who was working at the Palazzo Farnese on the other side of the Tiber River, proposed building a private bridge linking Palazzo Farnese to Villa Farnesina, however this suggestion was not carried through.

These days, Villa Farnesina is owned by the Italian State and it houses the Accademia dei Lincei, the renowned Roman Academy of Sciences, and the Roman Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe (Department for Drawings and Prints).

If you are interested in Renaissance artwork, ‘Music and Myth in Raphael Frescoes’ is an event that allows visitors to enjoy Renaissance art in this famous villa. As well as viewing the beautiful frescoes of Villa Farnesina visitors can enjoy Renaissance music performed on historical instruments.  For dates and booking information, see HERE.

Villa Farnesina is on via della Lungara, across the Tiber River.

Address:
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara, 230
00165 Rome

Map of Campo de’ Fiori:

St Paul's Within the Walls - Rome

For a predominantly Catholic country, Rome has some interesting churches of other denominations – Chiesa di San Paolo entro le Mura (St Paul’s Within the Walls) is one of them. Chiesa di San Paolo entro le Mura is an American Episcopal Church. Built in 1873, it was the first non-Roman Catholic church to be built inside the walls of Rome after the unification of Italy.

The Church

Located at the intersection of via Napoli and via Nazionale, St Paul’s Within the Walls is eye-catching because of its stripey layers of red brick alternating with travertine and its decorative bell tower.

It was the Rev. Robert Nevin who bought the land, organized the necessary permits and had the Church constructed by George Edmund Street, an English architect. The church was designed in Romanesque-Gothic style and construction took place between 1873 and 1876.

There are some interesting mosaics in St Paul’s Within the Walls – on the West wall are those by George Breck whereas those on the arches and in the apse are by Sir Edward Burne-Jones. The stained glass windows show scenes from the life of St. Paul. The church has a small garden with some interesting sculptures by Peter Rockwell.

Art at St Paul’s

St Paul’s is unique in that, apart from its religious mission and ministry, it also has some remarkable pieces of art to oversee and maintain. The Rev. Robert Nevin, the founder of the church, was an art dealer and on his death he bequeathed to the parish an assortment of pieces of fine art and sculptures. Some of these pieces are now available for public viewing. The mosaics by Burne-Jones and Breck and the stained glass windows are also works of art.

Because of its very good acoustics, Chiesa di San Paolo dentro le Mura is quite frequently used for classical concerts. See what’s on HERE.

Address:
via Napoli 58
00184 Rome, Italy

Fontana del Tritone © Travel Signposts

The fountains of Rome have an ancient and glorious history. Examples range from the Eternal City’s glory days in the 1st century AD to its even more glorious days during the Renaissance to the 18th century and beyond.

Other cities offer fountains that are barely beyond the utilitarian. But not Rome. Rome must have water displays that are works of art, because Rome is itself one enormous museum.

Famous Fountains in Rome

The Trevi is unquestionably the most famous fountain in Rome, but it has many competitors for the attention of the city’s many visitors.

Bernini Fountains

The  Fontana del Tritone (Fountain of Triton) is just one stellar example. Designed by the renowned Bernini in 1642, it is a masterpiece in the Baroque style. The central figure is a merman (the male equivalent of a mermaid), seated on a giant clamshell and flanked by dolphins.

Near the Spanish Steps is another Bernini fountain, his first in the genre. Displaying a half-sunken ship, the Barcaccia was a progenitor of the Baroque style in outdoor sculpture.

There is the  Fontana del Moro (Fountain of the Moor), also by Bernini, yet another example of a sea-oriented theme. Sited at the southern tip of the Piazza Navona – itself worth a visit – the fountain depicts Neptune surrounded by his subjects. Four Tritons expel water as sea creatures frolic below.

The Fountain of Neptune adjacent to The Moor was a 19th century addition that features many of the same elements, but in a vastly different style.

One not by Bernini, but clearly influenced by his style, is the Fontana dei Tritoni by Francesco Bizzaccheri located in the Boario Forum in front of the Church of St. Maria. Set between the Temple of Male Fortune and the Temple of Vesta, it was built in 1715 at the dawn of the Age of Reason. Two powerful Tritons kneel on a large outcropping of rock and support a basin from which the fountain’s water shoots.

Trevi Fountain © Travel Signposts

Fontana Trevi

But without a doubt the Fontana di Trevi, the Trevi Fountain, is the foremost example of the genre in Rome. Originally built in the 1st century AD, it was re-built between 1732 and 1751 at the orders of Pope Clement XII.

At 85 feet (26m) high and 65 feet wide (20m) it is the largest fountain in the city, and among the most beautiful. Sited at the rear of the Palace of the Dukes of Poli, it displays a familiar subject: Neptune, but this time riding a clam shell chariot behind two horses, amid Tritons and flanked by the gods of Health and Wealth.

Three Coins in the Fountain

It is here at the Trevi that hopeful tourists toss coins into the base, prompted by the legend that those who throw a coins in the fountain will one day return to Rome. The coins represent a healthy sum for the city’s charities. Clever marketing was not unknown even in centuries past.

Nicola Salvi is often credited as the designer, but there are elements that suggest Bernini had a hand in its creation. The water source is from the Aqua Vergine aqueduct, the name of a legend depicted in the fountain itself. A virgin is said to have offered water to thirsty Roman soldiers.

No visit to Rome could be considered complete without seeing at least a few of its many famed fountains, outdoor sculpture at its finest.

Bocca Della Verità © Travel Signposts

To test if a friend, spouse or partner is telling the truth, pay a visit to La Bocca Della Verità, the Mouth of Truth. A medieval belief is that the mouth would snap shut over the hand of anyone who dares to tell a lie while his/her hand is in the mouth.

The Mouth of Truth

Believed to be over 2,000 years old, the Bocca Della Verità is a huge stone disc set into the wall of the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. This man-like marble face with its mouth gaping open is an attraction for visitors to Rome, many wanting to try out this ancient lie detector.

There are many theories, myths and legends as to the origin of La Bocca della Verità. A popular theory is that it was a drain cover. Some believe that it was a cover of a sacred well, others believe it was a fountain and yet others believe it to have been a river God.

The Mouth of Truth has been made famous by many films. Anyone who remembers the 1953 film Roman Holiday will recall the scene where Joe (Gregory Peck) pulls his hand out of the mouth and it appears to be missing, causing Anya (Audrey Hepburn) to scream.

Bocca della Verita

Santa Maria in Cosmedin

The plain but beautiful church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin was built in the 6th century on the site of an ancient market.

In the 7th century it was called de Schola Graeca as it was located near many Byzantine structures. Around 782, the church was decorated by Greek monks who were escaping iconoclastic persecutions. Because of its beauty, the church was described as cosmedin or ornate (from the Greek kosmidion). The elegant Romanesque bell tower and portico were added during the 12th century.

Getting there

Santa Maria in Cosmedin is in the Piazza della Bocca della Verità.  The quickest way of getting there is by Metro Line B – get off at Circo Massimo.

San Luigi des Francesi by Ricardo André Frantz

Not far from Piazza Navona in Rome is San Luigi dei Francesi or Saint Louis des Francais in French (The Church of St. Louis of the French). There are five French churches in the Eternal City and San Luigi dei Francesi is the National Church of France in Rome.

The building of San Luigi dei Francesi began in 1518 when Cardinal Giulio di Giuliano de’ Medici commissioned Jean de Chenevière to build a church for the French community. Building work stopped when Rome was sacked in 1527 and the church was finally completed in 1589.

San Luigi dei Francesi Facade

The white travertine façade is the work of Giacomo della Porta and Domenico Fontana. Several sculptures on the facade of the building hint at the French connection of the church, including the marble coat of arms of France, the bas-reliefs of the Salamanders and the crest of Francois 1st.

Caravaggio and St Matthew

San Luigi dei Francesi houses many works of art such as the Assumption of the Virgin by Francesco Bassano (1589) and the frescoes of Domenichino on the life of Saint Cecilia (1616). A cast of prominent artists and painters worked on the internal decoration of San Luigi dei Francesi and the result of their work is evident in the magnificent interior.

However, the church’s most famous paintings are those in the Contarelli Chapel. Inspired by the figure of St. Matthew, Caravaggio produced some of his most famous works here including the three famous canvasses: The Calling of St Matthew, The Inspiration of Saint Matthew, The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew.

The Inspiration of St Matthew by Caravaggio

San Luigi dei Francesi Today

The church is a meeting point for the French community living in Rome and pilgrims passing through. In the Palace of St. Louis, next to the church, lives a community of French priests studying or working in Rome.

Music and Art in Papal Rome

“The Triumph of Music and Art in the Papal Rome” is an event that offers visitors the opportunity to enjoy a guided tour of San Luigi dei Francesi’s artwork and a unique opportunity to hear the early Roman liturgical music that once filled Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel, performed by the Schola Romana Ensemble.

While the Ensemble performs music by primarily Roman composers like Carissimi, Benevoli, and Pitoni, you will be led on the journey through the aisles of the Church of  San Luigi dei Francesi and introduced to the masterpieces of Caravaggio, Domenichino, and other important artists. The music will then accompany you to the Contarelli Chapel, where the paintings of Caravaggio are preserved.

What magnificent way to enjoy music and art in Rome.

Address:

St. Louis of the French
Via S. Giovanna d’Arco, 5
00186 ROMA

Map of Piazza Navona:

Graves of John Keats and Joseph Severn

The Protestant Cemetery in Rome is officially known as the Cimitero Acattolico or “Non-Catholic Cemetery”.  More commonly referred to as the Cimitero degli Inglesi (Englishmen’s Cemetery), it is the final resting place of two famous English poets, John Keats and Percy Shelley.

The Protestant Cemetery is not just for Englishmen. It is the burial place for non-Catholics from all nationalities.  Amongst its notable burials are Goethe’s son, English writers, Russian painters, German authors, Italian philosophers, American sculptors, etc.

The most famous graves in the Protestant Cemetery are those of John Keats and Percy Shelley. Keats was seriously ill with tuberculosis when it was suggested by his doctors that he move to Italy for the warmer climate. His friend Joseph Severn accompanied him on the journey which they made on September 17, 1820. Due to bad weather and quarantine Keats only reached Rome on November 14. He moved into a villa on the Spanish Steps which today is the Keats-Shelley Memorial House museum. Despite care, Keats died on February 23, 1821, three months after arriving in Rome. He was only 25.

Keat’s Grave

In a quiet corner in the old part of the graveyard is Keats’ grave. Keats had requested that he be placed under a unnamed tombstone which contained only the words, “Here lies one whose name was writ in water.” His friends Severn and Brown who erected the tombstone included the following longer epitaph:

This Grave contains all that was Mortal of a YOUNG ENGLISH POET, Who on his Death Bed, in the Bitterness of his Heart at the Malicious Power of his Enemies Desired these Words to be engraven on his Tomb Stone: “Here lies One Whose Name was writ in Water” Feb. 24 1821

Grave of Shelley

Shelley’s Grave

Shelley too died at a young age.  On 8 July 1822, just before his 30th birthday, he drowned in a sudden storm while sailing back in his schooner from Livorno to Lerici.  He was cremated on the beach near Viareggio and his ashes were interred at the Protestant Cemetery.

Joseph Severn who died in 1879 is buried next to Keats grave.

The Protestant Cemetery is close to the Pyramid of Cestius and is easy to reach by Metro.  Catch the Blue line in the direction of Laurentina and get off at Piramide.

See Travelsignposts Protestant Cemetery photos here >