Arraiolos Castle - Arraiolos

One of the reminders of Arraiolos’s foundation is the massive medieval fortress wall which sits on Monte de San Pedro, a hill north of the present town of Arraiolos. Castelo Arraiolos was built by order of King D. Dinis, but the site itself is believed to have been a prehistoric settlement dating to 300BC.

Arraiolos Castle

The Arraiolos castle dominates over the town of Arraiolos. To give an idea of the size of the structure, when King Dinis signed a contract in 1305 for the fortress wall to be built, it was specified that the wall should be 455.4 metres in length, 6.6m high and 2.2m thick. From the top of the hill there is a good view of the entire area and it is no wonder that King Dinis chose this spot to build his castle. Within the fortress walls was where all manner of village life existed.

This changed in the 14th century when the people began moving down to the valley where it was less windy and cold. King Ferdinand tried to induce the people to stay by granting a series of privileges, but that strategy failed.

When the Arraiolos Castle was passed into the hands of Nunos Alvares Pereira, who was granted the title of the Earl of Arraiolos, he used the castle as a base for military expeditions against the Kingdom of Castella. By the 17th century, the castle had fallen into a state of ruin. When Castelo Arraiolos was classified as a Portuguese National Monument in the 1960s, the walls were restored to its present perfect condition.

Visiting Arraiolos Castle

It is a long walk up to the castle, but it is well worth it. There are steps at the back of the two towers and you can climb up to the top for a panoramic view of Arraiolos valley. Except for the very well restored fortification walls and the 16th century Igreja do Salvador, nothing remains of Arraiolos castle.

See more photos of Arraiolos Castle HERE.

Map of Arraiolos:

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Arraiolos Town

Arraiolos is a small town with a very long tradition of embroidery. For over five centuries, its embroiderers have created famous tapestries and carpets that have hung on the walls of palaces, castles and manors in Portugal.

Most people come to Arraiolos to see its Tapetes Arraiolos and there are a couple of dozen carpet shops and factories in town to admire and buy carpets from. But, there is more to Arraiolos than just Arraiolos carpets.

The town is steeped in history and legends. Walking around town, you may think that the blue trims on the white-washed buildings are decorative and look pretty.  But to the locals they are intended to ward off the devil.

Things to See in Arraiolos

At the entrance to the town, in Vale Formoso, is the Convento dos Lóios which is now a pousada. Built in the 16th century, it is covered with magnificent blue azulejo panels.

In the Praca Lima e Brita is the Arraiolos Town Hall where you can see a collection of tapestries and creations by Dordio Gomes, a local painter. Beware of the dancing fountain in front of the building as it may shoot water when you least expect it to.

Other buildings in the square include the Church of the Misericordia which is highly decorated with azulejo tiles, the Hospital do Espirito Sano has a fine Manueline doorway in the chapel and the Igreja Matriz parish church, which was originally Gothic in style but was redesigned in the Manueline style.

The town square is also a nice place to have a break. We had a pleasant wine and cheese tasting session that was catered by CofeeSquare cafe.

Arraiolos Castle - Arraiolos

The medieval Arraiolos castle wall is an impressive sight. This perfectly formed fortress structure sits to the north of the town. From the top of the fortress towers you have a great view of Arraiolos town and the valley.

Places to Stay in Arraiolos

If you are driving in the region and want to make Arraiolos your base, the Casa Do Platano is in Arraiolos town. Other accommodation in the nearby Arraiolos valley include the Pousada Arraiolos, a restored 16th century convent, and the agritourism hotel Herdade Da Amendoeira.  For other Alentejo hotels near Arraiolos see HERE.

See Travel Signposts Arraiolos Photos HERE

How to Get to Arraiolos:

By Car – Arraiolos is 21km north of Evora and 130km east of Lisbon. Highway A6/A12 provides fast connection from Lisbon (less than an hour). Arraiolos is also well connected by the National Road Network.

Map of Arraiolos:

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Wine and Cheese in Arraiolos

Praça Lima e Brito is quite a peaceful place with the Arraiolos Town Hall building, a dancing fountain and a couple of churches and historic houses located on the square. All the activity seemed to concentrated outside the cafes where groups of visitors were enjoying some food and drink.

Wine and Cheese Tasting

As we sat under the shade of large umbrellas in the square, the people at CofeeSquare catered for the wine and cheese tasting. Bottles of red wine, baskets of bread, plates of salamis and cheese were polished off as quickly as they were served. The wine and cheese tasting turned out to be a feeding frenzy which quite surprised me as lunch as not so long ago. But, the people at the CofeeSquare cafe did a fine job in feeding the hungry masses and I thought that they got a much  hungrier crowd than they had bargained for. Sadly for the Arraiolos carpet shops, there seems to be more people enjoying the food and drinks  than carpet shopping.

Alentejo Wine and Artisan Cheese

There has been a significant number of quality wines produced in the region in recent times, but the wine that was served to us was the Moiras Tinto Frutado, a fruity, cheap but dependable Alentejo red. One of the artisan cheeses that we had was the Queijo Ovelha Curado from Monte da Vinha. This creamy cheese was delicious. Monte da Vinha is a dairy farm in Vimieiro near Arraiolos. Their cheeses are produced manually and without additives. Even the coagulant is natural. An interesting bit of information for me was that the sheep’s milk cheese are coagulated with thistle to give it a pure flavour.

The Alentejo region has some fine food and cuisine for visitors to the area, but on our quick visit the cheese and wine were all that we tasted.

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Elevador de Santa Justa, Lisbon

Wedged between two buildings in Rua de Santa Justa and Largo do Carmo is a Lisbon elevator that has become a tourist attraction. The Elevador de Santa Justa, one of the eccentric sights of the Baixa district, has been classified as a National Monument since 2002.

The Santa Justa elevator was designed by Raul Mesnier de Ponsard and completed in 1902. Born in Porto, to French parents, Raul Ponsard was an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel. When he returned to Lisbon he petitioned the royal house to provide funding for his grand idea.

Originally powered by steam!

Originally powered by steam, it must have been a sight to watch this elevator work during its early days. In 1907, this Lisbon lift was converted to an electrical operation.

The Santa Justa lift is 45 metres tall and made of iron and decorated with filigree.  Up to 20 passengers at a time can travel up and down in each of its two smart lift cages.  The cabins are wood-panelled and have brass fittings.

There is a cafe at the very top.

At the top, at 32 metres above ground, there is a walkway that links the elevator with Largo do Carmo in the Bairro Alto.  At the very top of the tower there is a cafe which affords magnificent views of the Baixa neighbourhood, the Rossio Square, Lisbon Castle and the river. To get to the cafe, one climbs a spiral staircase.

The ticket office for the Elevador de Santa Justa is located behind the tower on the steps up to Rua do Carmo.

Address:
Rua de Santa Justa & Largo do Carmo

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Caldo Verde by Mateus Hidalgo

Caldo Verde, or Kale soup, is a traditional Portuguese soup dish with Kale as one of its main ingredients and when travelling around the countryside, you’ll see plenty of this vegetable being grown.

In Portugal, it’s common to see Portuguese diners having  Caldo Verde as a starter.  The Portuguese are a nation of ‘soup-eaters’ and this hot vegetable soup is served  regardless of the weather and season in the year. Being a soup-eater myself, I like this tradition. It seems that only the residents of Lisbon don’t follow this soup tradition and in summer they have salads instead. This has earned them the nickname of ‘lettuce-eaters’.

Our tour director, a gourmand who himself enjoys cooking, says that Caldo Verde is a pretty simple soup to prepare and he rattles off this Caldo Verde recipe.

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 large potatoes, diced
2 onions diced
1 pound of coarsely chopped kale
2 garlic cloves
6 cups chicken or beef stock
chorizo sausage

Preparation:
In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and sautee for a couple of minutes, then add the diced potatoes and stock and bring the mixture to a boil until the potatoes are cooked.

When the soup is cool enough to handle, puree it in the food blender and return to the pot. Add the greens, bring everything back to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper, ladle into bowls and garnish with cubes or slices of chorizo.  Serve the Caldo Verde soup with bread.

The Portuguese Kale soup may not be fine cuisine, however it is a simple and nutritious Portuguese recipe that almost anyone can prepare at home.  Of course there are many variations and different touches that you can add to the Kale soup preparation, however the above is quick and easy recipe from a man who is frequently on the move.

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Oceanário Lisboa by Nol Aders

The Lisbon Oceanarium or ‘Oceanário de Lisboa‘ was built as part of the development for Expo ’98.  Situated in the Parque das Nações, it was in fact the centrepiece of the Lisbon World Fair and is also the largest oceanarium in Europe.

Anyone coming to the Parque das Nações will not want to miss the Oceanário Lisboa. It houses 16,000 plants and marine-life encompassing 450 different species.

The aquarium comprises a huge central tank, surrounded by four other tanks, each one recreating an ecosystem from four different coastal habitats.  They hold representative species of flora and fauna drawn from the Antarctic to the Indian, Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.

Sharks, barracudas, tuna, a huge Sunfish – and backstage tours!

The central exhibit, the Global Ocean tank, is 1,000 square metres and 7 metres deep. This massive container holds several hundred species from around the globe, including species of shark, barracudas, tuna and other large aquatic creatures. Look out for the Sunfish, one of the main attractions here.

Apart from the displays, the Oceanarium offers a backstage tour lasting 45 minutes. Knowledgeable tour guides take visitors to areas behind the scenes. Here, one can see how the staff do their jobs to take care of some of the inhabitants. You can also learn more about the Oceanário’s exhibits on a guided tour in the company of a marine educator who can tell you all about the exhibits in the Oceanarium. However, if you prefer to wander around on your own, there are audio guides that you can rent.

Sleep-in next to the sharks…

The Oceanarium offers many other events and fun activities such as a sleep-in next to the sharks for children. Over a million people visit Oceanário Lisboa each year which speaks for the popularity of this Lisbon attraction.

Address:
Oceanário Lisboa
Doca dos Olivais
Parque das Nações
Website: www.oceanario.pt

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Parque das Nações - Photo by Barao78

On the eastern side of Lisbon sits Parque das Nações (Park of the Nations), a waterfront area whose modern structures contrast spectacularly to the city’s old quarters.  Seeing Parque das Nações today, one would not suspect that this area was once an eyesore. 

Parque das Nações

An oil refinery, a seaplane terminal and other downtrodden structures dotted the wharf.  But with the selection of the area for the Expo ’98, a World Fair hosting 130 countries, the entire area underwent a massive transformation, giving Parque das Nações a futuristic look.

Parque das Nações was so named after Expo ’98, but locals still do refer to it as ‘Expo’. These days,  Parque das Nações is more than just a leisure zone. Since Expo ’98, there have been further developments and the Park of the Nations is now a commercial and residential area as well. With some 15,000 people living in the area, the amenities here include the Vasco da Gama shopping mall, hotels, a casino, theatre, restaurants, banking facilities, transportation hub, etc. The Parque das Nações website directory lists some 149 restaurants, cafes, gelatarias and other eateries.

Things to See and Do

Today, visitors from all over the world marvel at the new sights and sounds of Lisbon’s Parque das Nações. If you manage not to be lured by the Vasco da Gama Shopping Centre or the Lisbon Casino, attractions to explore include the Oceanarium (the largest in Europe), the Vasco da Gama Tower and Bridge, the Oriente Station, the interactive Science Museum and any of the hundred other fun things to see and do on Lisbon’s shoreline.

Vasco da Gama Tower by Osvaldo Gago

One entrance to the area is via the famed cable-stayed bridge, one of the world’s longest: the Vasco da Gama Bridge.  At nearly 17 km, it is an engineering marvel. Nearby are lovely gardens where visitors can rest and admire the view before heading off to some of the other sights.

Capping off this area is the Vasco da Gama Tower which rises some 175 m into the air.  Visitors who are not averse to heights can have a meal in the restaurant here, then proceed onto the Parque.  However, if the idea makes you queasy, fear not – there are plenty of restaurants and cafes throughout the area.

If all the activities become a little exhausting, it is possible to tour the area on a mini train that passes by the main attractions every twenty minutes. Alternatively, take a ride on the cable car which gives commanding views of Parque das Nações. The cable car runs parallel to the river along the full length of the site.

In between activities, you can always stop for a breather and a little liquid refreshment at one of the Parque das Nações fine bars. The conversation is always lively and the views are spectacular.

Lisbon Hotels

For those who like to make the Parque das Nações a base for their Lisbon holiday, the following hotels are in the Park of the Nations area:  Olissippo Oriente, Tivoli Oriente Lisboa, Tryp Oriente, Vip Executive Art’s.

Search other Lisbon hotels, read hotel reviews and make your Lisbon hotel booking here.>

Getting there:
The easiest and most convenient way to reach the park is on the metro. Hop on the Red line and exit at “Oriente” station which is the last stop. The station itself is a sight worth seeing, with a variety of murals and contemporary artwork on display.

Map of Lisbon:

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Sé de Lisboa by Night..

The roots of Lisbon go back centuries. It was a bishopric of the nascent Catholic Church as far back as the 4th century. But unlike many European cities, the history of Lisbon took an odd turn in the 8th century. It was conquered by Muslim invaders and the Moorish occupation lasted for nearly 400 years.   The result for the modern traveler is that even such a common building as a cathedral takes on a somewhat different cast in this Portuguese city. The Sé de Lisboa, or the Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa, is just such an example.

History of Sé de Lisboa

After the first King of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques with help from the English, drove the Moors out of Lisbon in 1147, he began an ambitious building program. One of the first was the Lisbon Cathedral, as it has come to be known.

Like most from the Medieval period, the project continued for nearly the next 300 years. As a result, the building displays many styles, as changes were made during the effort.

The cathedral facade is relatively plain, a utilitarian set of walls that appear to the visitor like a fortress. But the interior contains many splendours. The chapel in the cloister, for example, holds architectural details that will delight anyone who enjoys cathedrals. Here one can see evidence of Lisbon’s Roman and Arab periods in the excavated central courtyard.

High barrel vaults and an impressive rose window

Built with the standard Latin cross plan, there are three aisles, a transept and a main chapel. The cloister is connected to the church on the east end. Standing in the centre one can look up in the direction of the entrance at an impressive rose window. As you do, you can easily observe the high barrel vaults that were the main innovation of medieval churches adapted from the Romans. The other rose windows admit the warm Lisbon sunshine to illuminate them with a gentle glow.

Sé de Lisboa - Lisbon

Walk to the ambulatory and spend some time admiring the Gothic tomb of Lopo Fernandes Pacheco, an heroic knight in the service of King Alfonso IV. Beside his is that of his wife, Maria Vilalobos, who is depicted reading a Book of Hours.

Alfonso was once buried in the main chapel, but the tombs were destroyed in the famed 1755 earthquake that devastated much of Lisbon. Near the entrance is another surviving tomb, this one of a rich merchant named Bartolomeu Joanes.

Main chapel rebuilt in Rococo style after the famed 1755 earthquake

Construction has continued off and on right up to the present. In the 18th century, after the earthquake, the main chapel was rebuilt in the Rococo style of the day. One evidence of this is the crib in Joanes’s chapel.

While no one would claim that Lisbon Cathedral is the equal of Notre-Dame in Paris, its rich history – as seen throughout the building – definitely merits a visit from the Lisbon tourist.

The cathedral is in the Alfama district and is easy to reach by taking tram or bus.

Lisbon Map:

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Museo dos Coches Photo by Cytech/Flickr

One of Lisbon’s more unique national museums, and a premier attraction of this Portuguese city, is the Museu Nacional dos Coches or the National Coach Museum. It isn’t hard to see why. Filled with a collection of coaches that is rare, they can be seen nowhere else in the world.

The Museu dos Coches displays a wide variety of ceremonial and parade coaches from the 17th through the 19th centuries, along with much of the associated gear for the horses and riders.

Royal coaches from 16th century onwards – and so much more.

It began in 1726 as the stables for a riding academy commissioned by Joao V. Connected to the Belem Royal Palace, it later served to house the royal horses and the coaches they drew. Nearly two centuries later Queen Amélia, the wife of Carlos I, established the coach museum to display many of the royal coaches collected over the intervening years. Today, those coaches are the featured attraction.

There are simple sedan chairs, which transported royals and important visitors thanks to the labor of those men who carried them. There are cabriolets and chaises and litters. There are even small coaches built for the royal children. But even these relatively ordinary vehicles clearly show the magnificence that characterised the royal court of Portugal at the time.

A trip upstairs rewards visitors with a view of the many harnesses and other gear used on the horses. Far from mundane bits and bridles, they are works of art. Delicately carved silver and leather display the care that went into making even these most utilitarian of objects.

On the second floor there are also a number of costumes on display, examples of what the well-dressed royal would wear on a coach trip. The walls hold several portraits that allow one to easily imagine the entire scene.

Royal coaches aimed to impress the Pope…

But the pièce de résistance is unquestionably the royal transports themselves.

The oldest is one from the 16th century used by Phillip II on his journey from Madrid to Lisbon to review one of his 17 territories. The interior is a fine example that neatly shows the origin of the phrase ‘traveling in royal style’.

The centre of the entire exhibit is widely agreed to be the three coaches commissioned by Joao V for the Portuguese ambassador to Rome. Built in Rome in 1716 during the time of Pope Clement XI, they would have impressed even the ruler of the Vatican. Highly decorated, these gilded coaches make it easy to believe that the Portuguese monarchy was then among the richest in Europe.

Located in the Belem district of Lisbon, the Lisbon Coach Museum is easy to reach by bus or tram.

Address:
Afonso de Albuquerque Square
1300 Lisbon, Portugal

Map of Lisbon:

© Portugal Travel, 2011. Written by Helen Page

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Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Lisbon..

Popularly known as the Gulbenkian, the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum is Lisbon’s premier art museum.

The museum is named after Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian oil entrepreneur active in the early 20th century. After making his fortune trading in oil in Turkey, Iran and elsewhere he began to gather an art collection comprised of a wide variety of styles. Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Asian and European art all found their way into his rooms.

Later in life he turned his attentions to his beloved Lisbon. The city benefited in several ways, not least of which is the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian. Though not among the world’s largest museums, the quality of the works on display, spanning 4,000 years of artwork, is second to none. Gulbenkian’s motto was “Only the Best” and this is reflected in the masterpieces in the Museum’s collections.

A magnificent collection that spans the centuries.

In the Egyptian collection resides a famed gold mummy mask that would be the envy of the Metropolitan in New York, itself housing an outstanding wing of ancient artifacts. A well-preserved bowl from 4,000 BC is only one more of the many ancient treasures on display.

Not far away are Greek and Roman coins, statuary and other objects from the ancient world. Even the Getty, with its world famous collection in this category, would give an admiring nod to the Gulbenkian.

Following the geographical and chronological order of the displays is simple and it leads museum visitors gradually into the later eras. The 18th century works are particularly outstanding. Views of Venice from the period by Francesco Guardi compete well with his more famous fellow countryman, Canaletto.

Paintings by Rembrandt and Rubens dot the walls.

Paintings by Rembrandt and Rubens dot the walls. The Dutch master’s Portrait of an Old Man is as exquisite as any one could see in the galleries of Washington, D.C. or the Rijksmuseum. This and a few other works in the collection were bought during the Soviet sale of Hermitage paintings.  The Pallas Athene provides a different look into a variety that Rembrandt is not often given credit for. Ruben’s Portrait of Helen Fourment is not to be missed by any fans of this artist. Further on there are several works by Monet and Renoir.

Rembrandt, Portrait of an Old Man

Besides paintings there are several other forms of art at the Gulbenkian. The Diana by Houdon is among his best works and was once owned by Catherine the Great. Rodin’s Blessings is also housed here. Then there are the delightful samples of French furniture that rival those found in the Louvre. The Italian and Spanish ceramics that sit on top are equally impressive.

Moving still later toward the modern era there are numerous textiles from the 19th century and beyond. The Art Nouveau jewelry nearby is not only lovely, but are excellent representatives of the style and the era. The Lalique glassware and jewelry, given to Gulbenkian by the artist who was a personal friend, are among the best examples to be found anywhere. Not least is his Dragonfly, which adorns many a book cover.

Gardens that are both beautiful and relaxing.

The exterior of the museum offers gardens that are both beautiful and relaxing, especially in the warm Lisbon air that hints of the sea nearby. To get an overall view of the gardens from above, the cafe balcony provides the best spot.

When Lisbon became Gulbenkian’s home during World War II the city was set to become the fortunate recipient of one of the world’s finest small collections of art. You can reach the Gulbenkian museum via the convenient metro, where you’ll exit at the S. Sebastião or Praça de Espanha Stations.

Address:
Avenida de Berna 45a
1050 Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon Map:

© Portugal Travel, 2010. Written by Helen Page

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