Our Lady of Montserrat

The Monestir de Montserrat is located in an area of breathtaking natural beauty and there is plenty for visitors to do here. However, the biggest attraction of Montserrat is the statue of Our Lady of Montserrat, the Patron Saint of Catalonia. The Black Madonna is popularly known as La Moreneta (the Dark One) and her presence here makes the Monestir de Montserrat one of the holiest places in Catalonia.

Our Lady of Montserrat

Our Lady of Montserrat was proclaimed as the Patron Saint of Catalonia by Pope Leo XIII in 1881. In the upper section of the Montserrat Basilica apse, above the altar, is a beautiful 12th-century Romanesque carving which is about a metre in height. She has the child Jesus on her lap and in her outstretched hand is a globe, a symbol of the cosmos. Many pilgrims and devotees come here to venerate La Moreneta and to touch the orb.

The Legend of La Moreneta

Due to the presence of the Black Madonna image, pilgrims have been coming to worship her and Montserrat has been a holy place for centuries.

How La Moreneta came to be in Montserrat may be linked to a local legend which tells of the sighting of a vision by some shepherd boys in the year 880.

On a Saturday evening as the sun was setting over Montserrat, the boys saw a bright light shining down from the sky and it was accompanied by beautiful music. The following Saturday they returned with their parents and the same vision came to them again. On the following four Saturdays the Rector of Olesa went with them and everyone saw the vision.
According to this legend, the statue of the Black Madonna was discovered in a cave where the light shone. 

The Basilica at the Monestir de Montserrat

The cave where the shepherd boys are believed to have found the image of Mare de Déu de Montserrat can be visited today by taking the Santa Cova Funicular Railway. The Santa Cova Funicular was built in 1929 to take pilgrims to the cave and pilgrims have been visiting the site since that time.

On the Feast of the Virgin of Montserrat, celebrated on April 27th, the Sanctuary gets lots of visitors, especially the young,  who come to share in the activities and atmosphere of the day.

Address:
Monestir de Montserrat
Montserrat, Barcelona Province

Map of Montserrat:

Monestir de Montserrat

One of Catalonia’s holiest place is the Monestir de Montserrat (Monastery of Montserrat). Located against the beautiful backdrop of Mont Serrat, (Serrated Mountain) the Montserrat Basilica houses the Black Madonna or La Moreneta, the patron saint of Catalonia.

About the Monestir

Montserrat is a Benedictine monastery whose history goes back all the way to the 11th century when Abbot Oliba founded a small monastery next to the Chapel of Santa Maria. The site gradually grew in importance and by the 14th century, Montserrat’s fame had spread all over Europe. During the French War of Independence the monastery was attacked by Napoleon’s troops and many of the monks were killed.  After the violence and suppression of the Spanish Civil War, the monks returned again to Montserrat in 1844 and a program of reconstruction began.

Today Montserrat is a place of pilgrimage and many young people from Barcelona make overnight hikes up to the Monastery (1,234 metres high) at least once in their lives.

Visiting the Black Madonna

There are many things to see and do in Montserrat, but many come here especially to visit the Royal Basilica and to see the Black Madonna or La Moreneta. Our Lady of Montserrat is located in the Niche above the altar of the Basilica. The wooden statue is not big, only about a metre tall, and is protected behind glass casing. Many pilgrims come to Montserrat to venerate the Black Madonna and to touch her wooden orb which protrudes through a small cutout in the glass. If you are planning on doing this, be warned that the queue can be quite long.

Visiting the Black Madonna has its challenges – during our visit, our guide advised that it would take about 45 minutes to reach the Madonna.   We joined the queue when we noticed that the line had shortened but our hope of seeing the Black Madonna was dashed when a Basilica official appeared and announced that visiting time was over!  We were there within visiting hours and no reason was given, causing extreme upset amongst a German group that had been waiting a long time.

La Moreneta at Montserrat Monastery

We were very lucky though.  One of the tour guides showed us a way in for a quick view and we got to see La Moreneta.

Other Things to Do at Montserrat

• Montserrat is home to the Escolania Boys’ Choir, one of the oldest in Europe.  If you are lucky, you may be able to hear them singing at religious ceremonies and communal prayers in the Basilica.
• Join the monks at communal prayers
• The Museo de Montserrat has about 1,300 pieces of artwork by Monet, Sisley, Degas, Pissarro as well as works by many of the greatest contemporary artists such as Chagall, Braque, Le Corbusier, Rouault, Miró, Dalí and Picasso.
• Montserrat is a nature park and there are many interesting walks that you can do in the area.

Places to Stay at Montserrat

If you’re planning on staying in Montserrat the most conveniently located accommodation are the Hotel Abat Cisneros Montserrat and the Abat Marcet Apartments (Email:  reserves@larsa-montserrat.com) as these are right by the Monastery.  For other hotels in the vicinity of Montserrat see HERE.

Things to Buy at Montserrat

At the Monestir de Montserrat there is a gift shop where you can buy postcards and other souvenirs bearing the image of the Madonna.  More interesting are the roadside market stalls selling local honey, curds, cheese and a specialty fig loaf. I bought a small round for Euro 3.00 and it was delicious.

How to Get to Montserrat

We came here on a day tour from Barcelona but if you want to make your own way here, see our related post on How to Get to Montserrat.

See our Monestir de Montserrat photos at Travelsignposts Montserrat photo gallery HERE.

Map of Montserrat:

Semana Santa Spain - Holy Week

Easter for many is celebrated over the Easter weekend, however in fiesta-obsessed Spain, the Spanish Easter is an entire week of festivities known as Semana Santa, or Holy Week. During Holy Week, festivals can be seen throughout the whole of Spain. The most spectacular of the Semana Santa celebrations are in the cities of Andalucia, such as Seville, Granada, Malaga, Murcia and Valladolid.

Semana Santa in Spain

Holy Week celebrations in Spain are not just about doleful repentence. In Andalucia for instance, the emphasis is more on celebrating the central figures of Christianity.  Processions are a common feature of Holy Week activities that take place in every town in the region. In these emotive processions, floats carry unique and creative constructions that contain a figure of Jesus, Mary or an important saint. The times, participants and styles may vary from town to town, but almost all have some common themes.

Holy Week Celebrations

Local Spaniards are not the only participants of Holy Week. Semana Santa is one of the more important religious events in Spain and church officials from Rome and elsewhere come to take part in it. The event is also a tourist attraction, with visitors from around the world coming to merely witness or participate in the Holy Week festivals.

Typically, streets are closed off to allow for the floats and the hundreds or sometimes even thousands of people who precede or follow the procession. The festival is marked by religious figures dressed in Church finery carrying candles and directing the parade.

Semana Santa - Good Friday Float

The floats are the focus of the event and they carry statues of saints such as Saint Rocco who is regarded as a patron of the sick. The hopeful will often toss money onto the float, seeking relief from ailments or improvement. Other floats may depict Biblical scenes, early Christian stories, or any of the thousands of different images that evoke memories of tales that have been passed down through hundreds of generations. There is the Gitano del Polvorín, the Virgen de la Victoria and La Macarena de Sevilla, among many more.

The Ongoing Tradition of Semana Santa

Holy Week processions, like the stories, are an ongoing tradition that has its roots in the early Middle Ages. Going as far back as 1,500 years ago the faithful annually walked with the platforms to celebrate the Annunciation, the Sermon on the Mount, the Rising from the Dead and other well-known scenes from the Bible.

However, during the period when Spain was under the Islamic Moorish rule, Berbers, Arabs and others from North Africa, Semana Santa festivals were forbidden. Not surprisingly, after the Reconquest by the Catholic kings and the re-establishment of Christianity in the country, the festivals started anew. In Andalucia, Holy Week celebrations have been a regular event, with few interruptions, ever since.

Visiting Spain During Holy Week

The celebrations ramp up a notch during the final few days before Easter, so if you are planning to join in the Holy Week celebrations, this is an especially good time to visit.

Musicians will play and sing as others carry banners, followed by Nazarenos dressed in penitential robes and hoods.  At the end of the procession, which often takes place from dusk to the following dawn, the float enters its individual sponsoring church and a hush comes over the crowd, signifying the culmination of Semana Santa.

Hotels in Spain

Semana Santa is a very busy time in Spain and if you are planning on visiting during Easter week, do book your hotel well ahead of time. Cities like Seville are packed during Holy Week and popular hotels may become fully booked quite early.

Basilica de la Macarena, Seville

Across the road from our hotel the Tryp Macarena is the Basilica de la Macarena, home to the most revered image in Seville, Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza or Virgen de la Esperanza (The Virgin of Hope). This 17th-century holy icon is commonly referred to as La Macarena by locals. She is the patron saint of matadors and is also a favorite of Spanish gypsies.

La Macarena

The neo-Baroque Basilica de la Macarena was completed in 1949 as the new home for La Macarena. Until a fire in 1936, the Virgen de la Esperanza was previously housed in the 13th century Iglesia de San Gil.

Dressed in magnificent robes of gold and silver, the beautiful statue of La Macarena sits in a place of honor above the main altar in the Basilica. According to locals, the five teardrops which run down her elegant cheeks inspire them to want to comfort her. The four large emeralds on the statue were bought by Seville-born matador Joselito. He spent a large portion of his fortune acquiring these emeralds for the statue and when he died in the ring in 1920, the Macarena was dressed as a widow for a month.

La Macarena at Semana Santa

Since the 17th century, La Macarena has also taken pride of place in Seville’s Holy Week celebrations. During the seven days before Easter the streets of Seville are abuzz with numerous processions and floats.

La Macarena - Carolus/Wiki

The Basilica’s treasury also houses a collection of rare ecclesiastical relics, including La Macarena’s rich vestments and other lavish Semana Santa accoutrements.

Next to the Basilica are the remains of the Arab wall that once surrounded the city and the Puerta de la Macarena.

A visit to La Macarena is part of this Seville Afternoon Sightseeing Tour. See Here.

Opening times:

Basilica: Daily 09:00 – 13:00 and 17:00 – 20:00
Treasury: Daily 09:30 – 13:00 and 17:00 – 20:00

Address:

Calle Becquer 1
Seville

La Torre del Oro, Seville

La Torre del Oro or the Golden Tower was given its name because it was originally covered in golden tiles. But even without its gold covering, this 13th century Moorish watchtower by the banks of the Guadalquivir River is still a magnificent landmark.

La Torre del Oro dates from the year 1220 and was once part of the city fortification. With its gold tiles, it must have been an impressive sight.

A Prison and Gold Storage

During the Middle Ages, Torre del Oro was used as a prison and later the tower became a storage depot for gold and other precious metals that were brought back by the Spanish treasure fleets.

The tower is made up of three levels with the top circular section being added in 1760.

At one stage, the tower came under threat, but not from invading forces – road widening threatened the demolition of the tower. There was also an attempt in 1868 to put it up for sale as scrap, but thanks to the strong opposition from the locals the tower survived.

La Torre del Oro was eventually restored and today, this riverfront landmark appropriately houses a small Naval Museum containing models, navigation charts, compasses and ancient documents that showcase Seville’s maritime history.

Opening Times:

Tuesday to Friday – From 9:30 am to 1:30 pm
Weekends – From 11:00 am to 2:00 pm

Address:

Paseo de Cristóbal Colón s/n
41001 Seville, Sevilla (Sevilla)

Peñíscola Castle View

One of the main attractions in Peñíscola is its castle. The Castillo del Papa Luna or Peñíscola Castle, was built by the Knights Templar on a site that was previously an old Moorish citadel. The castle stands on the highest point of a rocky headland, some 64 metres above sea level.

Peñíscola Castle’s Strategic Location

Due to its strategic location, the rock on which Peñíscola Castle sits was much sought after by its early invaders. The Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines and Arabs amongst other invaders all wanted the rock of Peñíscola. When James I conquered the territory, there was already an Arab citadel on the location.

He gave the fortress to the Templars who had helped him with the war. Between 1294 and 1307 the present Templar Castle was built on the remains of the Arabic fortress.

When Benedict XIII (Papa Luna) occupied the castle, small alternations were made to transform the Templar Castle into a Papal palace. Pedro de Luna was elected Pope Benedict XIII during the Great Schism which split the Catholic Church at the end of the 14th century. Although Benedict XIII was deposed by the Council of Constance, he continued to maintain his right to the papacy. Pope Luna lived at Peñíscola Castle from 1417 until his death in 1423 and as such Peñíscola is considered a religious city. After the Alhambra, Peñíscola is one of the more frequently visited sites in Spain.

Castillo del Papa Luna - Peñíscola

Peñíscola Castle

There are three entrances to the fort:

• Portal Fosc is the Renaissance-style Dark Gate which srved as the main entrance until the 18th century.
• Gate of Sant Pere (Saint Peter’s Gate) was commissioned by Pope Luna in the 15th century. It provided Peñíscola with access from the sea.
• Gate of Santa María (Saint Mary’s Gate) was built in 1754, by order of Ferdinand VI to improve the access t the city.

One of the best attractions of visiting Castillo del Papa Luna is for the panoramic view from the top of the castle.  It’s certainly worthwhile climbing the steps to the top for the magnificent view of Peñíscola and its beautiful beaches and coastline.

If you’re planning on visiting Peñíscola Castle, good walking shoes are recommended. The cobbled streets up to the castle is quite steep, although, I would say that walking up is easier than coming down as the cobblestones can be slippery.

See Peñíscola and its famous castle at Travelsignposts’ Peñíscola photo gallery Here.

Address:
Calle del Castillo s/n
12598 Peñíscola, Castellón

Map of Peñíscola:

Court of the Lions - Alhambra

The Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions), with its celebrated lion fountain, is one the most famous images representing Granada and Spain. This Lion Court graces the cover of many tourist brochures on Granada and it features on thousands of postcards and even on Spain’s 2011 limited edition 2€ commemorative coins.

Patio de Los Leones

The Court of the Lions is part of the Palace of the Lions built by Muhammad V between 1362 and 1391. The Nasrid Sultanate was at its prime during this period and Court of the Lions was an example of the rich Moorish artistic styles that developed during this period. The Lion Court is lined with arcades which are supported by 124 slender marble columns.

When visiting the Lion Court, don’t forget to stop and admire the exquisite filigree-like carvings on the wall and arches.

The Fountain of the Lion is not just another Alhambra ornament for the purpose of contemplation. The fountain is yet another piece of evidence of the Moor’s deep fascination with water. The water from the lion fountain cools the elegant pavilions around the courtyard and the water system is said to be quite complex. Water flows in and out of the basin without spilling over, but instead spurts out of the lions’ mouths.  This fountain is held up by twelve figurative marble lions which is an unusual feature for a Muslim palace.

Court of the Lions - Without the Lions

The Court of the Lions itself has been through extensive restoration and when the Lion fountain is finally reinstated, it will look magnificent again.

Generalife Palace and Gardens

The Generalife was the summer residence and country estate of the Arab sultans. It was designed as a retreat close to the Alhambra and this was where the sultan could come to perhaps escape the palace politics and to enjoy some tranquility.

Situated on a hill on the northern end of the Alhambra, there is a pathway that leads to the Generalife from the Alhambra. During the time of the Moorish rulers, there were fruit orchards and vegetable patches in the Generalife, decorative gardens, the palace and other buildings.

A Tour of the Generalife

The Generalife comprises a lower garden section, the palace residence and upper gardens. Work on the Generalife gardens began in the 13th century, but what we see today is the result of modification works that have been carried out over time. For one, the vegetation would have been quite different over 700 years ago.

Walking through the Lower Gardens is quite an adventure. Hidden amongst the thick conifer hedges are beautiful hidden gardens of roses, water fountains and ponds and flower and herb beds. Archways are cut in the thick hedges and you never know what you’re going to see when you peer through these arches.

Generalife Palace and Gardens

Generalife Palace

In the Generalife Palace complex is the stunning Patio de la Acequia, an enclosed oriental garden built around a long central pool. Water was an important feature of the Alhambra design and here the rows of water jets form graceful water arches over the long pool. At the northern end of Patio de la Acequia is the entrance to the sultan’s palace. From the palace balcony is a nice view of Albaycin.

Next to the Patio de la Acequia is the the Patio de la Sultana an intimate courtyard and garden area with a U-shaped pool. During its heydays, there was a Palace Bath here.

To get to the Upper Gardens (Jardín Alto) walk through the Gate of the Lions and climb up the staircase with flowing water. From here you can make your way out of the Generalife.

The origin of the name Generalife has long been disputed and there are many interpretations of its source. Generalife in Arabic is “Yannat-al-Arif” meaning architect’s garden and having walked through the Generalife on a couple of visits and been delighted by its many designs and features, perhaps ‘an architect’s garden’ appropriately describes the place.

Map of The Generalife:

Patio de los Leones - Alhambra

The Alhambra is one of the two highlight attractions of Granada, the other being the nearby Generalife gardens. This Moorish fortress and palace complex is what most visitors come to Granada to see.

A Paradise on Earth

The Alhambra was the last of the great Moorish palaces.  Built during the reign of the Nasrid Dynasty, this was their idea of paradise on earth. Work began in the 13th century under Ismail I and then it was carried on by his successors Yusuf I and Muhammad V.

The Alhambra complex can be grouped into four main sections:  the Alcazaba which is the 13th century fortress section, the Palacios Nazaries the star attraction of the Alhambra, the Palace of Charles V and the Generalife.  Within the fortified walls surrounding the Alhambra there are splendid palace complexes comprising residential quarters, patios, court complexes and halls, all with magnificent features and decorations and the history to go with them.

Palacios Nazaries

The Mexuar Palace, the Lion Palace and the Comares Palace make up the Palacios Nazaries, where the  rulers of Granada lived and held court. The most impressive section is the Comares Palace which is the

Patio de Arrayanes - Alhambra

The Alhambra also includes the Palace of Emperor Charles V who decided to build his Renaissance palace here as he appreciated the beauty of the Arab palace complex.

Visiting the Alhambra

The Alhambra is an extremely popular tourist attraction and if you are planning on a visit, it is recommended that you purchase your Alhambra Palace ticket in advance or risk having to stand in line for hours at peak times. Also access to the Alhambra is strictly limited to a certain number of visitors each day. The Alhambra is a huge complex and if you are interested to learn about its rich history and appreciate the finer features of the palaces like the carved wood ceilings and the styles of the ceramic tiles, a guided tour is recommended.

When booking your Alhambra ticket, take note of your booked period of visit, i.e. morning, afternoon or evening. It is important that you also take note of your allocated entry time for the Palacios Nazaries as this section works on time controls.  Only a certain number of visitors are allowed to enter this section each half hour.  You can book a guided tour of the Alhambra and the Generalife Gardens here.  For a few dollars more, you also have a choice of a private tour.

Hotels Near the Alhambra

There is a huge choice of hotels in Granada, but if being close to the Alhambra is a priority, hotels like the Parador de Granada, Alhambra Palace and Casa 1800 Granada are within 100 to 500 metres away.  Personally, I would prefer to be in the Old Town or Albayzin districts as it is easier to see other Granada attractions as well as to go out in the evenings.

For other hotels near the Alhambra see HERE.

See photos of the Alhambra at Travelsignposts Alhambra photo gallery HERE.

Map of The Alhambra:

Palacio de la Madraza - Granada

Just opposite from the Capilla Real is the Palacio de La Madraza (Palace of Madraza). Before the fall of Granada to the Catholic Monarchs, this place was the Granada Madrasa, an Arabic school which conducts religious as well as secular education.

Granada Madraza

Founded by King Nazarite Yusuf I in 1349, the Granada Madraza, which was called Yusufiyya or Science House, was an important institution in Moorish Granada. It is located in a privileged place in the city, next to the old main mosque and the Alcaiceria, a Moorish bazaar.  Law, medicine and mathematics were some of the subjects taught here by eminent teachers.

Generally, madrasas have a courtyard, student rooms and a large open room for education and prayer. In the 18th century, the Granada Madrasa was almost completely demolished and it was replaced with the palace.

What’s left of the original Moorish features is the mihrab.  This finely decorated prayer niche was restored in the 20th century. There are also various areas of decorated plasterwork and a wooden dome covered with stucco lacework that belong to the original structure.

Today the Palacio de la Madraza belongs to the University of Granada and exhibitions are sometimes held here.

Address:
Palacio de la Madraza
Calle Oficios, 14, Granada

Map of Granada: