Spain Travel

Revisiting Calpe on Spain’s Costa Blanca; fifteen years on

Julie Bowman — Fri, 08 Jun 2012 13:39:38 +0000

Julie Bowman risks going back to the scene of her idyllic childhood holidays in Spain

Each summer as school finished for the year, there was only one thing on my mind; two long lazy weeks to just hang out and play in Spain. The usual villa was booked, for something like the eighth year running (after all this was the nineties!) and the books, toys and packets of English tea and cereals were packed. Fast forward fifteen years and I’m off to explore my childhood haunts without my siblings and parents in tow.

Funny how flights get shorter…

I love flying and the whole pre-travel build up and it amazes me how, as an adult, the flight seems so much quicker, just under two and a half hours from Gatwick into Alicante. As a kid the flight itself seemed to take an age, although maybe I appreciate it a little more now I have some long-haul flights under my belt. Also I guess there were no budget airlines back in the day, but thankfully today prices are cheaper and flights much more accessible. I’m exploring the Costa Blanca for a long weekend instead of the two weeks I used to have religiously as a child.

This time, a taste of luxury

The first promise I made to myself was to book a decent hire car to get around. I remember the hire cars of my childhood as sewing-machines on wheels, old Fiat Panda types that were already about ten years old. Tiny and tinny and incredible sweaty with five people crammed in (and that’s before a member of the party was sick, you know who you are!) No, it’s air conditioning and iPod docking luxury for me all the way this time!

Familiar landmarks bring back memories

Travelling the 70km up from Alicante heading towards Calpe, it struck me how quickly the journey passed, just me and my singing. The trips fifteen years ago were filled with arguments about directions and sheer tiredness (we always seemed to end up on night flights).

Successfully navigating my way onto the main coast road and heading just outside Calpe itself, I passed a few noticeable landmarks; the large orange supermarket where we used to buy the local brand of bread, “Bimbo”, (to laughs of delight) and signs to the restaurant we seemed to spend half the holiday at. When we didn’t eat at Val’s we ate the instant mash and tins of food hauled over on the plane. Thankfully luggage limits and adult taste buds have put paid to that on this occasion!

The Old Villa beckoned

The turning for our old villa was on a sharp left bend, but signposted so I could find it this time around. Driving up the long straight climbing road it seemed familiar yet unremarkably so. The villa was always signposted so at the top I turned left, then right, down the hill and there it was, still gleaming white in the sun, although a little smaller than I remember. I searched online (ah the modern invention of internet) before I left home and I couldn’t see this villa listed for rent. I probably wouldn’t have wanted to stay here anyway, although I can remember every stick of furniture and every nook and cranny. We even spent Christmas here one year but it was dismal. We hated it! No Santa, no snow and no decorations.

The Beach and the Rock

Nostalgia over, I headed back down to the main road to go into Calpe itself. Once booked into my small hotel I decided to explore on foot, first the beach which I’d never really spent much time at as a kid. It looked much the same, pristine and shockingly blue with the looming Penyal d’Ifac (The Rock) looming over the bay. Then I headed up the main drag into town, past the small shops, bars and restaurants that I couldn’t really remember as a youngster. I guess shopping, eating and drinking have much more appeal now!

So much to see that’s interesting – when you’re an Adult!

Taking a quick rest stop I flicked through the guidebook and realised just how much there was to see and do around here that my ten year old self was never aware of. As an adult we get to be interested in and do so much more; apart from the beaches (these are the Levante or La Fossa to the north and Cantal Roig and Arenal-Bol to the south), I could hike up through the Penyal d’Ifac Natural Park – even to the top of the Rock for a panoramic view over the Bay of Calpe if I felt energetic. Or I could explore the Roman, Iberian and Arab archaeological remains scattered around Calpe and visit the fifteenth century church of Senora de las Nieves (and the renowned new one next to it). Or I could revert to childhood and splash around in the pool and eat ice cream all day.

Ah, the choices we have to make as adults…

What do you think? Please comment below to tell me.

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Encierro – The Running of the Bulls

Helen Page — Wed, 30 May 2012 06:22:11 +0000

Pamplona’s Running of the Bulls is the Star Event of the Sanfermines:

Pamplona Running of the Bulls

The Running of the Bulls (Encierro) is an event that takes place in many towns across Spain, however it is the Pamplona’s Encierro that is famous the world over, thanks to Hemingway. Over 85 years after Hemingway’s cult novel The Sun Also Rises, the Pamplona Running of the Bulls is still as popular as ever.

The Running of the Bulls is the centre-stage event of Pamplona’s Sanfermines or Fiesta de San Fermín, an annual celebration that takes place in the city from July 6 – 14 .

Encierro

As we stand in front of the Town Hall, we learn of the four rockets and the significance of each of them in the organization of the running of the bulls:

the first rocket is fired from the main balcony of the Town Hall when the clock on the Church of San Cernin strikes 8:00 a.m. It signals the opening of the gates of the corral and the release of the bulls and oxen. Simultaneously, the barrier by the Municipal police is withdrawn and the runners are let through.
the second rocket is fired to signal that the entire herd of bulls have left the corral
the third rocket is fired when all the bulls have entered the bullring, and
the fourth rocket indicates that all the bulls are safely enclosed in the corral at the bullring and the bull run is over

Plaza Consistorial seems awfully small and even with just breathing space between the runners, it’s hard to imagine how so many participants manage to squeeze into the space. They do warn that if you’re claustrophobic or have had too much to drink, you shouldn’t take part.

Running of the Bulls Route - Pamplona

Running of the Bulls Route

Starting at Santo Domingo, the 848.6-metre Running of the Bulls route ends at the Bullring:

Santo Domingo – Plaza Consistorial-Mercaderes – Estafeta – Baja de Javier – Telefonica – Lane – Bullring

There are usually 6 bulls in the herd and they are accompanied by eight oxen. At the end of the run, the bulls are held at the Bullring corral and in the afternoon they are used for bullfights.

Running of the Bulls Rules

Whilst the event might look chaotic and rowdy, there are actually rules that the runners have to obey for their own safety and the safety of others. Pile-ups do occur – this is when one or a few people trip and cause others to fall over them. According to the experts, a cardinal rule is that if you do trip, and are in close proximity to the bulls, it’s best to curl up and keep still. You may be hurt by the trampling bulls, but the injuries are likely to be less fatal than being gored by a bull if you got up, as had happened to a young American runner.

From the little coverage that we see on the news, the bull run might give the impression to thrillseekers that it is fun, but from the number of deaths and injuries to-date, we know that it is a dangerous sport. The rule says that you must be at least 18 to take part, but one of the fatalities was a 17 year old. Anyone mad enough to contemplate this bull run should at least find out from the locals, and the experienced, the tactics for being a good runner.

Within a matter of a few minutes, when all the bulls have entered the bullring, the run is over. The bulls are held in the corral at the bullring and in the afternoon they engage in yet another popular Spanish tradition, the Bullfight.

Watching the Bull Run

For the majority of visitors who come to see the bull run, there are several places where you can watch it safely: many locals are renting out balconies for €20 – 30 per day; the outer barriers on the street are free but they are also very popular and you have to get there at least 90 minutes before the start; or at the bullring.

The Running of the Bulls is the main event of the Pamplona Sanfemines, but throughout the nine-day festival there are lots of other ceremonies, events and festivities taking place. If you are contemplating attending Sanfemines, it is recommended that you book your accommodation way in advance for this highly popular festival.

For Pamplona hotels, see Here.

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Pamplona – Where Thrillseekers Come to Run with the Bulls

Helen Page — Mon, 28 May 2012 10:40:00 +0000

Pamplona – Best Known for its Fiesta of San Fermin and the Running of the Bulls:

Pamplona Encierro Monument

Pamplona is a city that’s best known for its Fiesta de San Fermín and the Running of the Bulls. For those not familiar with the significance of Pamplona’s running of the bulls event, a stroll through the main streets of town will quickly enlighten you. Monuments, sculptures, the bullring and a clock counting down to the next San Fermín festival, all point to the importance of the Encierro in this town. There are also the scores of souvenir shops selling t-shirts, red handkerchiefs, caps and all kinds of bullfighting paraphrenalia.

Pamplona

Pamplona is a city in the province of Navarra and in the city you’ll see references to Iruña, which is its Basque name. This old fortress city is believed to have been founded by the Roman general Pompey and the city wall, Roman buildings and mosaics bear witness to its Roman heritage. Pamplona became the capital of Navarra in the 9th century.

The Sun Also Rises for Pamplona

Pamplona’s Encierro was made famous internationally by Hemingway through his novel “The Sun Also Rises”. Hemingway loved the atmosphere of the Festa of San Fermin and enjoyed it on nine occasions. In the city are many sculptures and tributes to Hemingway. This annual nine-day July Sanfemines brings hoards of visitors to Pamplona, some to participate in the daring feat of running of the bulls while others come to watch and join in the festivities and parties.

Pamplona’s Other Attractions

But if you are not a fan of the running of the bulls or the rowdy and alcohol-fueled chaotic atmosphere of the Sanfemines, there are many other reasons to visit Pamplona. It is one of the main cities on the Camino de Santiago and many pilgrims stop here. The city itself is beautiful, with parks and a river running through it, and for most of the year Pamplona is like any other provincial town with religious and agricultural festivals.

Map of Pamplona

We stopped here in August and from the southern-end of the Old Town we walk in the opposite direction of the bull run route. From the Plaza de Toros, we cross into Estafeta and walk up this street to the Plaza Consistorial. With images of the bull run in mind, what surprises me is the narrowness of this street which is lined with nice shops on both sides. And when we get to the Plaza Consistorial where the bull run starts of, I am again amazed at how so many people manage to squeeze into the square for the start of the run.

Many of the sights in the Old Town can be reached on foot and these include:

Pamplona Town Hall

the Gothic Pamplona Cathedral – this is one of the more important religious buildings in Spain
the Town Hall from where the running of the bulls rocket is fired
the Plaza de Toros – the end point for the Running of the Bulls
old palaces
the Museo de Navarra – has rich collections of Roman artifacts, a Goya portrait and Gothic and Renaissance paintings

In Plaza del Castillo are a number of establishments which Hemingway frequented during his Pamplona visits, such as the Hotel La Perla, Café Iruña and Bar Txoko. At Café Iruña, we manage to catch up with Hemingway in his favourite corner of the bar.

Hotels in Pamplona

If you are toying with the idea of visiting Pamplona for the Fiesta de San Fermin, you should book your hotel early as the town is packed for this week-long fiesta.

Gran Hotel La Perla – This is the classiest hotel in Pamplona and one where visiting celebrites stay when visiting Pamplona. It’s situated in one corner of Plaza de Castillo. Hemingway stayed here and his favourite corner at the Café Iruña is only a few steps away. The hotels other famous guests include Chaplin, Orson Welles and the Aga Khan.
Palacio Guendulain – This is another hotel where you can enjoy some pampering. This 18th century palace was beautifully transformed into a grand hotel. Amongst its exhibits are a collection of vintage cars that used to belong to the counts of Guendulain.
Puerta del Camino – This is yet another hotel with character. It was previously a medieval convent and you can now dine in luxury in the restaurant that’s set in the former convent chapel.
Maisonnave, Hotel Europa and Hostel Arriazu are other central hotels that are easier on the budget.

For the complete range of Pamplona hotels, see Here.

How to Get to Pamplona

By Plane – Pamplona Airport is about 6 km south of the city centre.
By Train – Daily trains from Madrid, Barcelona, Vitoria, Galicia, Asturias and a host of other cities arrive at the railway station in San Jorge Station and urban buses link the station to Pamplona city centre. For train schedules and fares see www.renfe.es.
By Bus – The very modern Pamplona bus station is in the south of the city on Avenida de Yanguas and Miranda. There are daily coaches connecting Pamplona to Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastián, Bilbao, Vitoria, Zaragoza and many other towns.

Map of Pamplona:

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Pamplona Airport Transfers – Aeropuerto de Pamplona-Noain (PNA)

Helen Page — Mon, 28 May 2012 05:52:21 +0000

Aeropuerto de Pamplona-Noain – Pamplona Airport Transfers:

Pamplona Airport Transfers

Pamplona Airport is located between the towns of Noain and Esquiroz and is about six kilometres to the south of Pamplona city. The new terminal which opened in November 2010 doubled the airport’s capacity and it is now able to handle 1.1 million passengers a year and also allows for larger aircrafts to operate here.

Pamplona Flights

Pamplona Airport is mainly a domestic airport. Currently the airlines that operate Pamplona flights are:

Air Nostrum
Iberia
Croatia Airlines (charter from Dubronik) and
Orbest Orizonia Airlines (seasonal from Minorca)

They mainly connect passengers to Barcelona and Madrid.

Note: There is no left luggage facility at Pamplona Airport.

International airports near Pamplona include Santander Airport, Bilbao Airport or Zaragoza Airport.

How to Get to/from Pamplona Airport

By Bus

Line 16 serves the Aizoáin-Noáin-Beriáin route and stops at the Talluntxe area, about 800 metres from the airport. For schedules and routes, see the TCC website www.tccpamplona.com.

Shuttle Direct

For door to door service, you can pre-book a private transfer with Shuttle Direct.

By Taxi

The taxi stand is next to the Arrivals area.

Car Rental

AVIS, Europcar, Hertz and National Atesa operate at Pamplona Airport.

By Car

Take the N-121 national highway in the direction of Zaragoza. Exit onto the NA-6006 motorway at kilometre 5. The car park at Pamplona Airport is just a minute’s walk from the terminal. There is capacity for 657 cars.

Map of Pamplona Airport:

How about you, what do you think?

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Torremolinos: Live from Spain’s Costa del Sol

Tony Page — Fri, 25 May 2012 09:05:28 +0000

Torremolinos on the Costa del Sol is Spain’s Beach Capital

Helen Page introduces you to Torremolinos on Spain’s Costa del Sol, an area on the southern coast, just to the east of Gibraltar. With 160 kilometres of Mediterranean coastline, the Costa del Sol is one of Spain’s most popular holiday destinations.

“Well hello again. Here we are in Torremolinos. As you can see on the right here there are lots of beach huts that you can rent. The beach itself is huge, it’s a long, long stretch. All along you see deck chairs that you can hire. Unfortunately, the sun has gone down for us so it might look a bit dark at the moment.

But what else can you do here if you don’t like the sun? There’s a place nearby that’s really interesting – it’s called Mijas. It’s up in the hills near the coast. Mijas is famous for its white houses and it was a silver town. There’s supposed to be lots of silver up there, but we didn’t see any.

What else can you do in Torremolinos? Well, there are lots of restaurants, and lots of bars. and it’s not as seedy as it used to be years ago. There are lots of nice hotels like the one we’re staying in, which is a huge place right on the beach and quite posh. But as the sun’s going, I’ll be walking off into the sunset – so I’ll see you later. Bye!”

Get more details about Torremolinos in our post: “Costa del Sol – Spain’s Beach Capital“
What do you think? Please comment below to tell me.

© Spain Travel, 2012. Written by Tony Page

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Peñíscola: Live from the Castillo del Papa Luna – a Knights Templar Castle

Tony Page — Fri, 25 May 2012 08:56:26 +0000

Castillo del Papa Luna – A Papal Palace and Knights Templar Castle in Peñíscola:

Helen Page introduces you to Peniscola from the battlements of the Castillo del Papa Luna, its Knights Templar castle built on a site that was previously an old Moorish citadel. The castle stands on the high point of a rocky headland, some 64 metres above sea level.

We left Barcelona this morning and travelled down south. After an hour or so of travel we left Catalonia and now we’re in Valencia. You know you’re in Valencia when you hit all those tracts and tracts of orange trees. As you know Valencia oranges are famous the world over and this is where they come from.

Now we’re in Peniscola which has two big attractions. Number one is this fort where I’m standing; we’ve just been up to the top, but it’s rather crowded – lots of people up there – so we thought we’d come down here where it’s a bit quieter. This fort was built by the Knights Templar. It’s huge, it’s quite amazing.

And the other big attraction is the beaches, stretches and stretches of lovely beaches. Spain has four blue star beaches: these are supposed to be the beaches that are the most beautiful and have all the nice facilities, and one of them is right here. Some of the people we’re travelling with have already gone to the beach. But here we are, sweating. It’s not only hot, it’s really humid. On the way up here we were already dripping. Poor Tony is shaking from the heat so I think I’ll cut it short now and go in the shade. See you later, bye!”

Get more details about Peniscola in our next post: “Castillo del Papa Luna – A Knights Templar Castle in Peñíscola“
Looking forward to your comments...

© Spain Travel, 2012. Written by Tony Page

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If the Apes Leave, Gibraltar Will Cease to be British…

Helen Page — Thu, 24 May 2012 14:53:28 +0000

Gibraltar’s Barbary Apes Are a Part of the Territory’s Tourist Attractions:

Gibraltar's Barbary Ape

You wouldn’t travel any distance just to see some apes, but visitors to the Rock of Gibraltar always find themselves captivated by the Barbary apes here. The apes are a part of Gibraltar’s tourist attractions and they do a pretty good job in keeping visitors amused.

Our first encounter with a Gibraltar Barbary ape was at the observation deck at the Top of the Rock. We took the cable car to the Upper Rock station and as we climbed the spiral staircase to the top, there was a Barbary ape stationed at the top of the staircase. It sat there in a meditative pose, allowing visitors to pose and take snaps of it. After fifteen minutes or so, it climbed down from the pillar and another ape came and took its place, almost like a changing of the guard. It was amusing to watch them.

Barbary Apes

There are about 160 of these Barbary apes on the Rock of Gibraltar. You can see them at two main locations. There are about twenty of them at the Apes’ Den (near Queen’s Gate). Here you can watch them at close quarters – young male and female apes can often be seen playing together and sometimes getting up to mischievous acts, including ripping up stuff that they’ve managed to grab from tourists. They are vulnerable, so please keep your distance! Near the Great Siege Tunnels, if you look carefully at the cliff and trees, you will probably spot some more.

Free-Roaming Barbary Macaques

Gibraltar’s famous Barbary Apes are the only free-roaming primates in Europe. The Apes are a species of tailless monkeys called Barbary Macaques and they can also be found in Morocco and Algeria. They spend over 30% of their day interacting with visitors but do remember that they are still

Gibraltar's Barbary Ape

semi-wild animals and need time to rest and take part in other ‘monkey activities’, free from human interference. Whilst they may seem tame, if you do anything to annoy them, they will retaliate. The cable car attendant told us that a mindless visitor once kicked a young ape and the whole tribe came chasing after him. When he reached the cable car he was pale and shaking with fear. Hopefully that’s taught him a good lesson.

The Barbary apes are cared for by the Ministry for the Environment and the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society. They are fed fresh food every day and visitors are asked not to feed them. In fact, the sign at the cable car station warns that there is a £500 fine for feeding them.

But the Barbary apes of Gibraltar are more than just tourist attractions. According to a legend, if the Apes leave Gibraltar it will cease to be British.

See more Gibraltar photos at Travelsignposts Gibraltar gallery Here.

Do YOU have any ideas on this? Please comment.

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Bilbao – Live from Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum

Tony Page — Wed, 23 May 2012 14:37:43 +0000

Bilbao in the Basque Country is the Home of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum:

Helen Page introduces you to Bilbao and Jeff Koons’ “Puppy” from the forecourt of the Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum. Bilbao, in the north of Spain, is the capital of the province of Biscay and the largest city in the Basque Country. But for most visitors, it is the Guggenheim Museum that brings them here.

“Well, we left Santander this morning and here we are in Bilbao to see Frank Gehry’s famous Guggenheim Museum. This is what four million people come to see each year. This place is HUGE. A good thing to do is to walk around the Museum and see the different aspects of the building – as the light shines on it it does it does amazing things. It’s made of titanium and it’s interesting because it doesn’t discolour.

Obviously there’s great artwork in the Guggenheim if you’ve got time to see it, but we’re only here for a couple of hours so we only had time to walk around. The weather here is brilliant and it’s quite warm even though it started out quite cool this morning.

So, I’m going to walk that way to look at the different colours and check out this beautiful puppy that you see resplendent in beautiful floral arrangements. Yes this is Jeff Koon’s “Puppy”. We saw it in Sydney where it was green and gold, but here it is beautiful with many coloured flowers. I love it, it’s so beautiful, so I’m off to pet my puppy now. Bye!”

Get more details about Bilbao and the Guggenheim in our next post: “Bilbao – Home of the Stunning Guggenheim Museum“
Please comment.

© Spain Travel, 2012. Written by Tony Page

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Santander – Live from Sardinero Beach

Tony Page — Wed, 23 May 2012 13:34:59 +0000

Santander, The Capital of Cantabria, is Famous for Its Beaches:

Helen Page talks about Burgos and Santander from Sardinero Beach esplanade. Santander, on the north coast of Spain, is famous for its vast stretches of beaches. When a summer palace was built here for King Alfonso XIII in 1912, it sealed the town’s reputation as a popular summer retreat:

“Well, we left Madrid this morning and after a couple of hours drive we arrived at Burgos, which is famous for its cathedral – it’s an amazing cathedral. There’s lots of little chapels with beautiful artwork and sculptures and that’s where El Cid’s grave is. There’s a lot to see there. We had a couple of hours and we had to practically rush through the place. It’s a beautiful place – it’s an absolutely must-visit place. We had lunch in Burgos and then it was a couple of hours drive up to Santander. Oh, another thing, Burgos is on the pilgrimage route, so pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostella route stop in Burgos.

So now here we are in Santander on the north coast of Spain. This region is Cantabria, famous for its beaches. There’s lots of stretches of beach and this particular stretch is called Sardinero. Beautiful weather, lots of sunshine.

Actually, there’s not a lot of monuments to see here and the main attraction is the casino. It must be doing well as there’s a new hotel being built next to it. The beaches are quite crowded, lots of local people. But, it’s a bit windy and chilly up here on the Esplanade, so I’m going to walk down there now and see what’s happening on the beach. See you later!”

Get more details about Santander in our next post: “Santander – Capital of Cantabria“

Looking forward to your comments...

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The Convent – Residence of the Gibraltar Governor

Helen Page — Wed, 23 May 2012 13:11:44 +0000

The Convent Has Been the Residence of The Gibraltar Governor Since 1711:

The Convent - Gibraltar

Towards the southern end of the Main Street of Gibraltar is The Convent, the official residence of the Governor of Gibraltar since 1711. This humble name of the building is derived from the fact that the building was originally founded as a Franciscan Convent.

The Convent

The Franciscan Friary was founded around 1480, earlier than the Discovery of America. When the friars left Gibraltar in 1704, use of the building was transferred to Gibraltar’s Governor and it subsequently became the Governor’s residence. The Convent’s red brick facade and marble portico date from 1863.

As a result of protests from extreme protestant organizations in 1903, the building was renamed to “Government House”. However, during a war-time visit by King George VI in 1943, he authorized the resumption of the old name and up to today the building is called The Convent. The Governor must enjoy telling foreign dignitaries that he lives in a convent!

Adjacent to the Convent is the King’s Chapel which later became the garrison church. King’s Chapel was renamed “Queen’s Chapel” during Queen Victoria’s reign, however Queen Elizabeth II restored the name to its original King’s Chapel.The building was used as a store during the Great Siege of 1779-1783. Two British governors were buried here.

Changing of the Guard

The Convent is guarded by officers of the Royal Gibraltar Regiment. Following in the tradition of British royal ceremonies, a Changing of the Guard takes place in front of the Convent. If you’re in the area, you’ll most likely witness this as it takes place several times a day. It is nowhere as grand as the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, but nevertheless, it does attract some attention.

My favourite building is the attractive building across the road from the Convent. The white Convent Guard House has two shining brass cannons in front of it.

Thoughts?

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