The Stone Mouth

The famous Mouth of Truth - (Bocca della Verita)

Across from a small park that contained the old Roman Tempio di Vesta, originally dedicated to the conquering god, Hercules Victor, was the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin which had attracted a line of people. We had arrived in Rome after a lengthy journey along parts of the Via Francigena. Carol had decided to [...]

St Bernard Pass – gateway throughout the ages

x2-at-st-bernard-pass

From Martigny in Switzerland (along the Via Francigena) we struggled over the hardy obstacle of a mountain ridge. Because a flood two weeks before had washed away the walking track and the railway track – both of which followed the river. We had planned to walk from Martigny to Orsieres that day, mostly along the Dranse [...]

Espalion – on the French road to Santiago

The marvellous town of Espalion on the Lot River, France

  Walking into Espalion is one of things that makes you feel that you have accomplished something. I don’t know why, but that’s how it can be some days. We had just come down from the Aubrac Massif (in the south-west region of France), where although the weather had been kind to us, we were [...]

Leon – highlife on the Camino

Parador San Marco, Leon, Spain

We had been staying in pilgrim refugios for most of the way from Pamplona and it was decided to enjoy some luxury. Not normally being the luxury type, I was eventually convinced to stay overnight at the magnificent Parador of San Marcos in Leon. Leon was originally a Roman military garrison and its name was a [...]

High Street – Roman Road

Looking at Roman High Street in the Lake District, UK

We were on the Coast to Coast track. As the wind rose the temperature dropped. We stopped and put on our wet weather gear and beanies. The wind relentlessly nipped at our ears. The gusting of the wind and the swirling of the clouds added to the beauty of this stark wilderness and I took photos to [...]

Don't let the side down – have a rest.

On the Cotswold Way

When you are out on the track, you do have to pace yourself. We had been walking well all day, with some stops – morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea, getting closer and closer to the day’s accommodation. Some of us have the propensity to maintain a momentum which may be difficult to stop if [...]

To visit a castle – sometimes take a bus

Chamber below Chillon Castle

What a lavish breakfast at Hotel Helvetie in Montreaux, Switzerland. We were journeying along the ancient Via Francigena, the path that stretches all the way from Canterbury to Rome. After breakfast we decided to take the local bus four kilometers to Chillon Castle which lay on the lake’s (Leman) edge and came face to face with hundreds of other tourists who [...]

A side trip to Assisi

Temple of Minerva, Assisi, Italy

We were walking sections of the Via Francigena when we decided to visit the hilltop city of Assisi. I had heard and read about it for years. We ended spending four days here, mostly walking. Because it is situated on a hill (the foothill of the large Mount Subasio) we got a lot of exercise in. [...]

La Rochelle – the Templar port

la-rochelle

Walking in France – and arriving in medieval towns like La Rochelle is an amazing experience. I hadn’t read much about French history, but I had heard that the Templar fleet left La Rochelle days before King Philip IV arrested the Templars across France. It’s been said that the fleet transported the Order’s treasure to [...]

People make the walk (1)

Slow progress over bridge in Lake District

People make your journey. We were walking up to Skiddaw – I think – (this was in 1985) and we met two walkers heading in the same direction. It was a cold wet day so we shared some jokes and took some pictures of our rather slow progress up the valley. It’s amazing how meeting [...]