The Central Sofia Market Hall (Tsentralni sofiyski Hali), is a covered market in the centre of Sofia, on Marie Louise Boulevard.  Popularly known as The Market Hall (Halite), it was opened in 1911 and is today an important shopping centre in the city.

Naum Torbov was the architect appointed for the project.  The building took two years to complete and is regarded as Torbov’s best work.  The style is Neo-Renaissance, and features elements of Neo-Byzantine as well as Neo-Baroque architecture. Interesting features on the façade include the relief of the coat of arms of Sofia above the main entrance and the famous small clock tower with three dials on top of the edifice. The building was originally constructed with four entrances, although not all are used today.

The Market Hall used to be managed by the Sofia municipality up till the late 1940s. Rents and the quality of products sold were strictly regulated then. The Market Hall was closed in 1988 for reconstruction, with funding being provided by an Israeli company – see the Star of David fountain in the central part of the ground floor.

Walking around the ground floor, there were stalls selling foodstuff like olives, bread and pastries, nuts and sweets and rose oil products, etc.  On the upper level the shops sold stuff like clothing, accessories and jewellery shops.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

In the vicinity of the Halite, along Ekzarch Josif Street, can be found the Central Synagogue of Sofia. Built between 1905 and 1909 by the Austrian architect Gruenanger, it was intended to be a smaller replica of the Sephardic (Spanish-Jewish) synagogue in Vienna which was destroyed during WWII. The famous brass chandelier weighing over 2200 kilos, the large candelabra (Heb. menorah), and other decorations were imported from Vienna. After four years of construction, financial crises, and much communal debates, the Central Synagogue was finally opened on September 9, 1909.

During the bombing of Sofia in 1944, the Synagogue was hit several times. The building was partially destroyed and years of exposure to the elements caused the exquisite ornamental wall designs to be damaged. The bombings also destroyed the community’s famous Judaica library and most of the valuable Hebrew books were burned.

Fortunately, through a very generous donation from the Doron Foundation of Israel, the building has now been restored to its former glory. In accordance with Bulgarian Sephardic synagogue tradition, one enters through a large, quiet courtyard, which almost transports the visitor to sunny Spain. The Central Synagogue is the only Jewish house of worship in Sofia.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

As mentioned in the last blog, I was so thrilled at having met the Bulgarian President that I had to convey my delight to someone and this person turned out to be a serious looking military guy.   Not knowing if he understood  English, we were just happy to show him with our smiles that we very much enjoyed the city’s celebrations.  It was with great surprise that Sergei started talking to us and wanted to know where we were from.  He said that he liked Australia and the Australian people and was a keen fan of Steve Irwin.

Sergei told us that he is the Chief of Military Protocol which impressed us.  After a bit more chit chatting, he took off his badge and gave it to Tony.  We were flabbergasted at his generosity and didn’t think it was appropriate to take it, but he insisted on Tony having this souvenir.  All we had to reciprocate with was my very humble ballpoint pen with aboriginal artwork on it. 

Sergei obviously liked chatting to us and invited us to coffee at a very posh cafe where he frequently entertains foreign military delegations, etc.  It was obvious that he is well known about town as people greeted or saluted him along the way.  He was very keen for us to learn more about his city and pointed out things as we walked.   Sergei was a genuinely nice guy and it was obvious that he enjoys travelling and the exposure to foreign cultures and lifestyles.   He extended his invitation for us to stay with him and his family in their city apartment anytime we’re in Sofia and advised us that his wife is a great cook.  We could have chatted to him the whole afternoon, but had to excuse ourselves as we still had work to do, to photograph the other end of town.  How fortunate we were to have met this very interesting person who enriched our local experience.

When we told our tour director of our experiences, he in turn shared it with the rest of group, which increased Tony’s kudos no end.  Bold and brazen, we were going to flash the badge at the Bulgarian border guards if they gave us any grief .. luckily we didn’t have to do this!

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Last year when we came through Sofia, we arrived late in the evening and just managed to catch sunset views of the external facade of St. Sofia Church and Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. This time around, we were much luckier as we happened to be in the city on St. Sofia Day (September 17), a day when the Orthodox world pays tribute to the Holy martyrs Sofia and her three daughters Faith, Hope and Love. 

From the group of defence personnel, police and crowds that had gathered, it was apparent that an event was about to take place, but we couldn’t get anyone to tell us what it was in English.

There was a large stand set up for the media and photographers on one side of the road and across from them, a temporary altar that had been set up.  A large gathering of Orthodox priests were standing by the altar in colorful and magnificent gold embroidered robes.   It must have been really hot for them in the sweltering heat. Next to the priests, rows of men and women were standing in line.  From their mixed nationalities, one assumed that they must be from the diplomatic missions.

A moment of panic as we thought that we had missed all the good viewing spots, but fortunately, a bit further up from the media stand, we found a spot under a shady tree.  What a triumph as this turned out to be much better than the photographer’s stand! From where we were we had a frontal view of the altar. More people were gathering  along the street and everyone seemed pretty patient in spite of the long wait.  Eventually, a black limousine pulled up in the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral square.  A very distinguished looking man got out of the car and walked towards the altar.  The local lady next to me was all smiles and she told me that it was their President, Georgi Parvanov, accompanied by the city’s Mayor Boyko Borissov. Cameras clicked away while all the military personnel and police stood to attention.

The President did his ceremonial duties, greeting the senior priests, inspecting the guards and then greeting the diplomats. After the national anthem, a liturgy was conducted by the Deputy Patriarch (we think).

When the official ceremony was over, the troops marched off and the crowd then pushed past the barriers and made their way across the road to St. Sofia Church where the President had headed.  We thought this was a gross breach of security, but apparently, it was normal and we followed suit.  The President did a meet and greet in front of the church and as he was leaving a tall teenage boy asked for something to be written in his notebook, I thought.  The President wrote a long message in this boy’s book and it was touching that he took so much time and care to do this.  When he was finished, a lady next to me handed her notebook for an autograph which the President kindly obliged.  Not speaking the language, but gauging from his friendliness, I plucked up courage and asked for an autograph as well, declaring that I was from Australia.  He looked up,  surprised at a foreign voice, but still signed on my notebook and I also scored a quick handshake.  So this was the day that I had my brush with presidential fame.  It really made my day in Sofia!  It’s not everyday that one gets to meet a president of a country whilst on holidays.  The greatest disappointment was that Tony was nowhere to be seen and missed the photo opportunity.

As the President was leaving and the crowd dispersing, I said to this senior looking military guy that “Your President is great.  He’s so friendly.”  This guy turned out to be the Chief of Military Protocol.  Tony recognized him, through his lenses, giving instructions during the proceedings.  The next blog covers our time with our newly found Colonel friend.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Opposite from the Russian Church, on the other side of Rakovski Street is the Central Military Club.  Before WWII, it was a venue for many grand balls, attended by Sofia’s elite and royalty.  As part of the city’s beautification project, the facade of this attractive, Renaissance-style building was refurbished a few years ago. 

Today, the Club is a popular venue once again.  The building is three storey high and the facilities inside include a coffeehouse, an art gallery, a number of halls of varying size, as well as a concert hall that seats 450 people.  We we very fortunate to have a very real Colonel Sergei Kanthev pose with us in front of the Club. 

Rakovski Street is also known as theatre street and Sofia has a high number of theatres given its small population.  We were on our way to have coffee with Sergei at his favorite and very posh cafe and didn’t have time to explore theatre street.  Sergei mentioned that in nearby Slavianska Street, is the Ivan Vazov National Theatre, which is supposed to be the most beautiful.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

The Alexander Battenberg Square was called the 9th September Square during the communist era.  The old square played a central role in military parades and celebrations of that era. A large white neoclassical mausoleum that used to stand here was built in 1949 to house the body of Georgi Dimitrov, Bulgaria’s first Communist prime minister after WWII.

Dimitrov died whilst on a business trip to Moscow, and there were speculations and suspicions surrounding his death. His body was returned to Sofia, embalmed, and put on display inside the mausoleum for the public to parade past, similar to Lenin’s body in Red Square. Dimitrov’s family removed his remains in 1990, cremated and buried them next to his mother in the city graveyard. 

In 1999, the government decided to tear down the mausoleum claiming that it was a “symbol of autocratic totalitarian power” and the “negation of parliamentary democracy.”  The general public thought otherwise, believing that it was necessary to preserve all of Bulgaria’s history, even the Communist bits.

Several attempts were made to destroy the mausoleum and it was discovered the structure had been reinforced to withstand a nuclear blast. This is amazing considering that the mausoleum was constructed in six days.  Inspite of public protestation, the mausoleum was finally bulldozed with the help of the Army Corps of Engineers and the final cost was estimated at $400,000.

A year later, in an attempt to beautify the area, an international garden festival was installed. Many of the foreign diplomatic missions participated by creating small gardens, typical of their homelands.  Unfortunately, due to lack of funding the gardens were left without maintenance and security and today only remnants remain of what the area could have been.

The Square is within easy reach from the Sheraton Hotel and is a good starting point for a walking tour to many city sights, following the yellow brick road.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

To the north side of the Alexander Battenberg Square is an elegant building known as the former Tsar’s Palace.  It is nowadays home to the National Art Gallery and the Ethnographic Museum.  We arrived early in the morning and the art gallery was closed, but we were glad to huddle under the portico and be out of the morning chill as our tour director gave us a rundown on the building’s history.

The Tsar’s Palace was built in 1873, and during the Ottoman occupation, it became the residence of the ruling governor, with administrative offices and police headquarters on the lower floors.  It was here that Vassil Levski was tried and sentenced to death.  Vassil Levski was leader of the national revolutionary movement against the Ottoman rule and a national hero to the Bulgarian people. 

After liberation, the Tsar’s Palace was the first building to be refurbished in contemporary Viennese style and it became the seat of Bulgaria’s first post-liberation monarch, Kniaz Alexander Battenberg.

The art gallery has recently re-opened and it would have been great to see the exhibits in the renovated chambers of the former royal palace. The Ethnographic Museum in the eastern wing covers Bulgarian folklore and traditions, including costumes from various regions.  Although established in 1878, many valuable exhibits were lost during the bombing in 1944. 

The gift shop was opened and we had a quick 20 minutes to look at the typically traditional Bulgarian handicrafts. The little shop was jammed with goods and no photography was allowed, the explanation being that this was part of the Art Gallery, a bit ludicrous we thought. Postcards, rosewater fragrance and soaps were popular quick purchases amongst the ladies.  There was a thick woollen vest that I thought would look quite nice and ethnic and I asked for the price — only to be told that it’s an antique piece of costume that was part of the gallery display.  It was a bit strange having it hanging amongst other clothing for sale.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

You’ll know when you’ve reached the President’s administrative quarters when you see these smartly attired guards of honor standing at the entrance to this building.  Alternatively, if you can read some Cyrillic, the words below the crest tells you that this is the Republic of Bulgaria - President.   The changing of the guards of honor occur daily on the hour and if you’re lucky, you’ll see them trouping off in formation.  Ladies who love the sight of men in uniform – you’ll be impressed.

Opposite from the Sheraton Hotel, we came upon the Church of St. Nedelya. Nedelya was built in the period 1856-1863 on top of remains of the Roman town of Serdica.   It is a lovely and unique church which was almost demolished after a bomb explosion destroyed most of its original frame.  Our tour director mentioned the attempted assasination of King Boris III, perpetrated by leftist extremists, but  didn’t say where the church was.  We were very thrilled when we saw the plaque on the outside wall which confirmed that this was church where the 1925 assasination attempt took place.  King Boris was late for service that day and survived the assasination attempt, although many innocent people perished. The church was later painstakingly restored to its former glory.

During your city walking tour, you’ll probably be brought through an underground passageway, which happens to be part of the remains of the ancient city when it was known as Serdica.  It’s always an amazing and mind blowing experience to be walking on the very grounds where ancient civilizations existed centuries ago.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Behind the TZUM shopping mall, at the start of Maria Luisa Boulevard is the Banya Bashi Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Europe. It was built in 1576 by the same famous Turkish architect, Hadji Mimar Sonah, who built the Sultan Selim mosque in the town of Edrine in Turkey.

Banya Bashi Mosque was completed in 1576, during the reign of the Ottomans. The Mosque derives its name from the phrase Banya Bashi, which means many baths.  The most unusual feature of the Mosque is that it was actually built over natural thermal spas and hence it seems that steam rises from the vents in the ground near the Mosque walls. Whilst we did not take time to check this out, we certainly caught whiffs of a strange smell, which must be the sulphur from the spring.  The Mosque is famous for its large dome and the minaret rising upward to the  sky.

The Banya Bashi Mosque is the only functioning mosque in Sofia.  A remnant of the Ottoman rule of Bulgaria that lasted nearly five centuries, it is still in use by Sofia’s  Muslim community.

At the far end of the Central Baths, there was a thriving honey market in action.  There were numerous stalls selling all types of honey and honey products and the stallholders are keen for you to try their products, in the hope that you’ll buy some.  

Apparently a key element for successful honey production is that the production area needs to have a variety of plants.  Although small in size, Bulgaria is one of the most suitable places for apiculture due to its rich flora and temperate climate.  I tasted the Acacia bee honey, but not being an aficionado, I couldn’t say that I could tell the difference between this and the sunflower bee and lime-tree honeys. 

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Behind the TZUM shopping mall there are a number of interesting historical sites, one of these being the Central Mineral Baths. With its colorful ceramic mosaics on the facades, it is a landmark in the center of Sofia.  Project design commenced as early as 1889 and submissions by an Austrian architect in 1889 and another by a French architect in 1901 were declined.  The successful design by architects Petko Momchilov and Friedrich Grünanger in 1904-1905 was approved in January 1906, incorporating the Vienna Secession style but at the same time also integrating typically Bulgarian, Byzantine and Eastern Orthodox ornamental elements.  (In 1897, a group of young artists led by Gustav Klimt broke away from classicism and formed the Vienna Secession. These artists and architects rejected academic traditions and sought new modes of expression.) The building’s ceramic majolica decoration were designed by Haralampi Tachev and St. Dimitrov.

The base construction completed in 1908 and a Bulgarian company constructed the complex roof and the mineral water unit. It was opened to the public in 1911 as a public bath with separate facilities for men and women but the officially opening took place on 13 May 1913.  It took then another two years before the building was completely finished and a garden installed in front of the Baths.

During World War II, the north wing suffered damage during the bombing of Sofia.  It was restored several years later and continued to work as public baths until 1986, when it was closed due to its bad condition and concerns about the stability of the roof.  

It is currently being refurbished and will eventually house the first City Museum dedicated to the History of Sofia as well as be used as a hydrotherapy center.  Apparently locals queue everyday to collect the warm mineral water at the tapped springs in the park area.  There are some benches in the garden where you can sit and enjoy the atmosphere and we did just that, whilst we consumed the snack that we bought from the nearby Halite food market.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog