June 2nd is Festa della Repubblica, when Italians the world over commemorate the 1946 proclamation of the Italian Republic. It’s a national holiday in Italy and we wish all our Italians friends a happy holiday.

If you’re lucky enough to be in Rome at this time, there are lots of festivities and events happening at this time.

Italian flag

• Watch out for the traditional and highly evocative military parade which takes place on via dei Fori Imperiali. This military parade is a tradition carried on since 1950.
• The gardens of the Palazzo del Quirinale, official residence of the President, will open and free to the public on June 2nd, with concerts performed by the band of the Italian Army, Italian Navy, Italian Air Force, Carabinieri, State Police, Guardia di Finanza, Polizia Penitenziaria (Penitentiary Police) and Corpo Forestale dello Stato (State Forestry Department). This is very popular with the locals.  I’m sure lots of ladies will be there checking out the ‘men in uniform’.  The presidential guards are deliciously good looking!
• Head for the Spanish Steps where the azaleas make their annual appearance. With 700 plants on the Trinità dei Monti and adjacent streets it’s no wonder the Trinità dei Monti has gained the reputation of the ‘most beautiful staircase in the world’.

Festa della Repubblica also kicks off the summer festivals and all around Rome, there are jazz festivals, operas, music concerts, art festivals and much, much more.

Travel Signposts Blog

Like a viral epidemic, the much anticipated SATC inflicted excitement on women around the world last week, many of whom clamoured to be at the first night’s viewing. The receptionist at our gym hurried everyone out of the changing room before closing time. I asked her if she had a hot date and she said no. She was bursting with excitement as she was going to Sex and the City and didn’t want to be late for the show. Now that she’s seen the show, she can’t wait to see it again, moaning that she doesn’t have any money this week for the movie ticket, let alone the Manolo Blahnik shoes that Carrie’s got every fashion-conscious woman craving for.

Wow, so if you have an addiction for Labels, but don’t quite have the huge salaries that these four trendy New York gals have, where can you go to acquire some of these wonderfully branded goodies. Designer outlets is a good place to start and one such place in Rome is Castel Romano. The place is run by the McArthurGlen Group who have outlets in several countries in Europe. At Castel Romano you will find a range of prestigious labels and quality items at discounts ranging from 30% to 70%, depending on whether they are current or previous season’s stock. Given the price tag of some of these labels, even a 30% discount would only merely make a dent on the full-priced item, so it may be necessary to hunt down those items with at least 50% discount. As mentioned in the previous blog, the tax refund will also help in bringing down the cost of purchase a little further.

There are over 110 boutiques in the mall, some more fabulous than others and certainly some of the labels that Carrie, Samantha, Charlotte and Miranda were dressed in are available here, e.g. Ferragamo, Gucci, Cavalli, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, and the list goes on. By the way, this is not a ladies only domain as there are lots of menswear too. Apart from fashion wear you’ll also find sports wear, homewares and gifts, leather goods and fashion accessories.

Designer outlets are usually located on the outskirts of town where the rents are cheaper and there is more space available. This is the case with the Castel Romano Outlet which is situated on the outskirts of Rome and there’s no easy way to get there on public transport. For this reason, private tour companies have sprung up to capitalize on the gap and create guided shopping tours for tourists. A disappointing aspect of these private tours is the limited hours of shopping and the price is not cheap either, which means erroding into the savings from your discounts.

We decided to find our own way own there and had an interesting experience on our first expedition out to the outlet. From Termini Station, we caught the train for Laurentina (blue line). Laurentina is the end of the line and there is a bus terminus here. There are different bus lines here and we managed to establish that it’s the COTRAL buses that we needed and one that is going in the general direction of Pomezia. The depot employees didn’t speak any English and as long as they didn’t shake their head in the negative, we assumed we were on the right bus. Once on the bus and not speaking any Italian, we tried asking people on the bus if they knew Castel Romano. A couple of the men shrugged, others consulted each other, but generally it appeared that they didn’t seem to have any idea. The discussion reached the hearing of an elderly lady at the front of the bus and straight away she knew what we were after. From the pitch of her voice and her hand gestures, she appeared to be admonishing the men for being ill-informed. Straight away she hit the bell and motioned us to get off the bus and pointed across the road. Yes the big tents of Castel Romano is a prominent landmark along the route so how could these men not know it. Bless this kind signora for being on the bus and hearing our call for help. Later on, I surmised that the men must have thought that, being tourists, we must be looking for a Roman castle! Once we got off the bus, finding the entrance to Castel Romano wasn’t that straight forward either.

Once you’re at the place, it’s quite a pleasant place to spend the day checking out all the shops. There are food outlets there, so there’s no problems with sustenance. We bought some really nice stuff from our trips here, including leather jackets, shoes, etc. For our return trip to Rome, we caught a cab from Castel Romano back to Laurentina. We thought it would be too crazy to try and catch a bus back especially as there’s no bus stops on the road and we didn’t have a clue as to the bus schedule. Things are a bit easier these days and the Outlet office administration has made arrangements with taxi drivers for a fixed fare back to the station. The last time we did the trip it cost us Euro 30, which was much more reasonable than in the earlier days.

So if you’re planning on venturing out there on your own, make sure you write the name and address on a piece of paper to show the bus driver as you’ll not find many people on the outskirts who will be able to help you with directions in English. Perhaps on your first trip out there, it may be a safer option to catch a cab from Laurentina.

Happy Shopping!

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

We’re on the train from Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci Airport, or Fiumicino as it used to be called, to Roma Termini (Rome’s Central Station).  The middle-aged lady sitting facing us looked very elegant.  The suitcase next to her seat confirms that she’s just been off a flight, like the rest of us.  Yet, she was a picture of composure, her coiffured hair was not flattened by the pressure in the plane and her face showed no strain of hours in uncomfortable airline seats.  She had gold jewelry around her neck and wrist and matching earrings and her sun-glasses were the latest in fashion accessory.  She was one stylish middle-aged lady and I wish I could look as good as her after a long-haul journey.

Italians of course have a great sense of style and it doesn’t just stop at high fashion.  Think Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, Ducati and even home appliances such as those by Alessi.  Italy is one of the leading centres of alta moda or high-class fashion with eminent names like Valentino, Gucci, Prada, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Versace, to name a few, consistently dominating the international fashion stakes.    Designer wear from the likes of Valentino, Prada or Armani come with a high price tag, made much higher by the strength of the Euro.  I must say that the only time I dare venture into these boutiques is when I see SALDI or SCONTI on the shop window.  During the sale season prices are slashed by half, but they would probably still be rather pricey and so I hang out for further discounts to occur.  With a 50% discount, VAT refund and good exchange rate, you could come out with a reasonable buy.

Although many of the great designers are based in Milan, Rome is still a pretty attractive and thriving centre for shopping.  Summer sale time (SALDI) generally starts from mid-July and ends around mid-September whereas the winter sale starts just before Christmas and stretches to early March. Via Condotti is where all the big names of Italian fashion are located and it’s good to start from here to see what the high end of town has to offer. Then stroll up and down the streets that run down from the Spanish Steps and you’ll find heaps of shops selling shoes, bags and other leather goods, jewelry shops, fashion accessories, etc.  Around the back streets you may find interesting light fixtures, handicraft and gift shops. 

Leather goods are a good buy in Italy and the workmanship is very good.  Even if you’re not looking to buy anything in particular, it’s great strolling around the streets near the Spanish Steps to see what the latest fashion item is.  The locals enjoy window-shopping as well.  When shopping or window-shopping, it’s handy to learn a few Italian words as the prices are often quoted in Italian.  For instance you may see an outfit on display in the window and the tag tells you the price of the camicia or pantaloni and what colors are available.  If the budget does not allow you near designer fashion wear, then try the grandi magazzini like La Rinascente, or chain stores like Upim and Oviesse. 

There are a couple of outlet stores in the centro historico but it’s a case of potluck in these places.  One serious outlet place is Castel Romano, managed by the McArthurGlen group.  This place is a little out of town and there’s no easy public transport there although the town council have been threatening to put in place transport for years.  Things have improved a little and it’s good that the Macarthur Glen people have made arrangements with cab companies for a fixed price fare that takes you to the railway station.  Alternatively, you could join a tour that takes you to the place and back but the problem with this option is that they usually only allow you three hours of shopping.

More about outlet shopping later.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

As I’m presently on a cheese obsession, my attention was drawn to the current scandal about the potential contamination of mozzarella cheese with cancer-causing dioxin.  Italian authorities have recalled mozzarella sales from 25 producers in the Campania region near Naples, where buffalo mozzarella is made. Health officials believe the dioxin is linked to a recent garbage crisis in Naples and the surrounding Campania region. With dumps in the area full, locals have resorted to burning piles of trash in the streets and in open fields. Apparently industrial waste have also been set ablaze, spreading fumes that in some cases contained dioxin, a toxic chemical.  The stench must have been very unpleasant for the locals and equally so for those holidaying in the Naples region. 

The illegal dumping of trash is not a new issue for Naples and the politicians and city’s administrators seems unable to resolve the problem.  Meanwhile, the sales of buffalo milk mozzarella has dropped some 40 percent in the last few months and countries like France and South Korea have started to impose bans on mozzarella imports.  Italian producers and some government authorities are claiming that the contaminated cheese is only confined to a small region and that it’s more than contaminated milk that’s at issue here.  They are claiming that criminal elements are producing fake products from dubious raw produce.

Wow, next time we have our Insalata Caprese – fresh mozzarella with tomato and basil – there will no doubt be some nagging concerns as to how authentic the mozzarella is or whether the milk has been exposed to contamination.

Authentic mozzarella is made from buffalo milk, primarily in the Italian provinces of Caserta and Salerno, and also in the neighbouring communes in the provinces of Benevento, Naples, Latina, Frosinone and Rome.  These regions together form the single geographical area in which mozzarella is produced.  The essence of fresh mozzarella is that it’s prepared by evening and ready for consumption the next morning.  Fresh mozzarella oozes with flavour and can be eaten with a chunk of fresh bread.   The manufacture of authentic mozzarella is centuries old and is now protected by European Commission Law, through the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) legislation. By EC PDO legislation means that only mozzarella cheese made in a certain manner and in the specified regions of Italy can now be sold as authentic mozzarella di bufala.

Mozzarella di bufala can be very expensive, if you don’t happen to live in buffalo milk producing area.  I found this out accidentially when I was incorrectly served Mozzarella di bufala instead of my normal cow’s milk variety.  When the bill was presented to me, the price floored me.  I was discretely advised that the buffalo mozzarella costs $75 a kilogram.  Cow’s milk mozzarella lacks the brilliant blue-white porcelain finish of genuine mozzarella. Due to commercial pressure for a longer shelf-life, you will find some mozzarella have been compromised in terms of moisture content, freshness and texture. Commercial mass produced mozzarella will never be able to compete, in terms of flavour and texture, due to the inherent differences between cow’s milk and buffalo milk.  Whilst it is always good to be able to access the genuine produce, cow’s milk mozzarella is certainly a more affordable option to its buffalo counterpart.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

We enjoyed a very nice penne arrabiata and pizza pescatore at our local trattoria last night.  Towards the end of the evening, Franco, one of the owners came over, his face glowing from spending a night in front of the pizza oven.  It was a very frantic evening and Franco was happy to have some interaction with real people, rather than his pizza oven.  We complimented him on the quality of the pizza and the tastiness of the pasta sauce which made him beam with pride.  We lamented to Franco how we miss having funghi porcini and indelible in our memory was the first meal of porcini mushrooms at La Capricioso in Rome many years ago. 

The funny part of our experience was that when the dishes arrived, Tony looked at it and concern showed on his face at how plain the dish looked and even more concerned at whether the slabs of mushroom was going to be enough to even tickle his stomach.  Served like a steak, the porcini were simply baked in olive with garlic and parsley.  When we recovered from our initial reaction and started to taste slivers of the mushroom, it was heavenly.  The flavour was intense and the mushroom just melted in the mouth.  You can tell how good it was as we still remember it to this day.  Franco couldn’t wait to cut into our story.  He was so excited to tell us that he and his brother had been discussing porcini mushrooms as well and are contemplating importing them.  We were a little doubtful about whether frozen porcini would provide the taste sensation however Franco assures us that that’s what his family used to do back home.  When in season in August, his mum would clean and then freeze the mushrooms.  So, the verdict’s still out and we’ll have to wait and see when he actually gets them.

If you happen to be in Italy at fall, look out for porcini in August or early September. Restaurants display large bowls of porcini in their windows and porcini specials can be found in their menus. When we last walked into La Carbonara in Campo dei Fiori, we saw the huge bowl of porcini on display and knew instantly that we were going to have a great meal. 

Porcini season varies each year, depending on the weather.  Rain or damp followed by warmth and sun is ideal porcini weather. During the season, mushroom hunting becomes a national pastime and gourmands find excuses to make trips to a country restaurant or trattoria so that they can enjoy country cuisine with freshly picked porcini close to the source.

From porcini, Franco went on to mention tartufo or truffles, however he’s not promising to include this in his cooking due to the exorbitant price of this commodity – literally more expensive than the price of gold.  Truffles are mainly found in regions around Spoleto in Umbria and can sometimes overshadow the porcini season. They don’t look very attractive, but taste sensational when infused in dishes.  Local residents have perfected freezing, drying, or preserving truffles in oil, so they can enjoy this taste sensation throughout the year.  Luckily for us, we have great chefs like Tetsuya whose Black Truffle salsa keeps us going until we’re next in Italy.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Archaeologists, probing the depths of the Eternal City, have made a very significant discovery. A sixth-century copper factory, medieval kitchens stocked with pots and pans and remains of Renaissance palaces are among the finds at Piazza Venezia and near the ancient Forum.  Over the past nine months, archaeologists have discovered several ancient structures during works to pave the way for one of the 30 stations of Rome’s third subway line.  This current discovery however is very important due to the extreme rarity of the pots and pans.  Piazza Venezia’s famous landmark is the Victor Emmanuel Monument.

Officials believe there may be more discoveries along the way and this may spark disputes between planners and conservationists. They indicated that it is not uncommon for unscrupulous developers to fail to report a find and plow through ancient treasures.  This is really tragic and perhaps the only solutin to stop this is to post rewards for people to report such illegal activities and impose crippling fines for those who are caught out.

Yes, the citizens of Rome deserve better public transport, but not at the expense of destroying their ancient heritage and the revenue that they get from millions of tourists who come to the External City to enjoy its thousands of years of history.

Visit our Travel to Italy pages for more info. 

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog