On a brief stopover in Odessa, one of the best ways to get a feel for the city is to do a walking tour of the old town.  As our ship was moored at the sea passenger terminal, this was easy enough to do.

Duke de Richelieu monument

The sea passenger terminal is within close proximity to the Potemkin Steps and there’s a cable car that takes you to the top of the Potemkin Steps if you don’t feel inclined to make the climb.  Once you reach the top, you’re on Primorsky Boulevard where the Duke de Richelieu, standing on his pedestal with right hand outstretched, appears to be welcoming the world to Odessa.  The Duke played a key role in making Odessa a duty free port and in his left hand is a scroll with a manifesto about the duty free port zones.  The two yellow semi-circular buildings at Primorsky Square were built in the 1830s to Russian classic styles and are the oldest surviving buildings on the Boulevard.  Within one of the buildings is ‘The Boulevard’ an upmarket restaurant that promises to transport diners to the glory days and experience the spirit of old Odessa.

Pushkin monument

Facing away from the port, if you walk to the left, you’ll soon come upon Londonskaya Hotel.  At the end of Primorsky Boulevard is Deriskaya Square where the monument to A.S. Pushkin stands with the City Hall in the background.  There’s massive renovation works going on and barricades around the place so we did our best to get these snaps.

From Pushkin’s monument, if you walk to the top of Chaikovskogo Lane and then take a right turn, you’ll end up at Ekaterininskaya Square or Catherine Square.  A towering statue of Catherine the Great stands in this square where once stood the monument to the Potemkin sailors.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

To experience more of the history of Odessa, walk to the northern end of Primorsky Boulevard and here you’ll find the Palace of the Governor General Mikhail Semenovich Vorontsov.  The Palace is yet another architectural design of F. Boffo, who during his forty years living in Odessa was prolific in designing some fifty of the classical buildings that we are able to enjoy today.

Count Vorontsov's Palace, Odessa

The building that we see today is only the front part of the original structure.  The Orlov wing comprising mainly apartments and outbuildings and considered the less valuable part of the complex, was torn down.  On the front, Tony noticed some Arabic inscriptions, but due to the lack of English translation, we were not able to make out its significance.

Count Vorontsov's Palace, Odessa

On the seafront side of the palace, an elegant white rock colonnade in the shape of an arc forms part of the Palace structure.  This Grecian-looking colonnade comprises ten pairs of Tuscan pillars and from here you have a panoramic view of the port area.  This must be a popular wedding photography location and when we were there a young couple arrived in their horse and carriage.

Mikhail Semenovich Vorontsov comes from a family best remembered for their influence on the development of Russian culture and history after the palace revolution of 1741. When Empress Elisabeth ascended to the throne, the Vorontsovs served as chancellors, viceroys, field marshals, senators, and ambassadors, among many other positions. In the 18th century Mikhail Illarionovich became chancellor and his niece, Ekaterina Romanovna Dashkova (nee Vorontsova) was director of the Imperial Academy of Sciences as well as president and founder of the Russian Academy. Her brother Alexander was chancellor at the beginning of the 19th century and their nephew, Mikhail Semenovich, was later viceroy of the Caucasus. 

Arabic inscriptions on Vorontsov Palace wall

When Mikhail was young, his father chose to carry out his diplomatic duties in England and Venice so that his children could have the best of education. Mikhail himself was an exceptional individual who played an active part in the development of Odessa. Of aristocratic background, he could have had his pick of the highest positions at court and in the army when he returned to Russia, yet he asked to be appointed a mere lieutenant and went to the frontline to fight in the real war.  He is believed to have been on the battlefield practically without a break for about twenty years. His successes at battles won him many promotions and imperial awards, culminating in Tsar Nicholas elevating him to the rank of Prince in recognition of his services during the Caucasus campaign and of the imperial debt owed him.

In 1936 the palace became the children’s palace for young pioneers. After the war, it was named in memory of sixteen-year-old Young Communist League member Yakov Gordienko.  When we were there the place was deserted, but for a resident band practising their very loud Western music.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

On any walking tour around Old Odessa, you will no doubt come across Deribasovskaya Street, one of Odessa’s most famous streets.  The street was named in honour of the founder of Odessa, Joseph de Ribas, a commander of the Russian army.  De Ribas defeated the Turks at Khadzhibei, a Turkish fortress, and annexed the territory for the Russian empire.  With great ambition and initiative, he developed Odessa into a thriving city and it became the southern capital for Russia.

Sergey Utochkin Memorial

Leonid Utyosov Memorial

A little further down the path is a bench in which Leonid Utyosov sits and invites anyone to join him for a picture. Leonid Utyosov was a singer and actor, much loved by Odessans.  Lots of lovely young women take up his offer to pose for a picture, so the old guy must be pretty chuffed.

City Garden, Odessa

Next, we get to the City Garden.  This beautiful and green park in the city centre is popular with locals who come to enjoy the green and serene atmosphere.  This park was given to the city by de Ribas and his younger brother Felix and the two brothers planted the first tree in this park. In the past, local artists and craftsmen used to gather here to exhibit and sell their works, however they have since been moved to Cathedral Square.

Yes, it’s certainly worth strolling down Deribasovskaya Street as this is where the locals hang out.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

We were on a mission to get some Ukrainian hryvnia this morning and our guide brought us to the Londonskaya Hotel on Primorsky Boulevard.  Did other people wonder, as I did, as to why we would change money at a hotel?  Don’t they normally offer the worst exchange rates?  Anyway not knowing the Ukrainian system nor our way around at this early stage, we obediently followed our guide’s instructions. 

Money Exchange at Londonskaya

As we approached the hotel, it got a little bit more bizzare, the Londonskaya has a huge casino sign flashing beneath the hotel name.  This would be a first for me, changing money in a casino?  We entered the dimly lit lobby, and to the right of the staircase landing, we saw our dimly lit exchange window where a single lady looked after all our exchange needs.  You didn’t have to produce any passport and it was all done quite quickly and efficiently.  The only problem I had was not being able to read the faint receipt that I was given.  Tony actually had to brighten these photos for the gallery.

Londonskaya Hotel, Odessa

The Londonskaya sits on a site that was originally occupied by a private residence in 1826. The building was designed in the style of early Italian Renaissance by  Francesco Boffo, an architect who was responsible for designing many of the classical buildings in Odessa at the time.  Jean-Batiste Karuta, a well-known French confectioner and food connoisseur transformed the building and became the first owner of the hotel. Apparently all the “patriotic” French names were already taken by other hotels so Monsieur Karuta looked to Great Britain and decided to call his hotel “Londonskaya”.  It seems a bit contradictory to go from a choice of patriotic French names to something that is English-based. 

Londonskaya Hotel Lobby, Odessa

The hotel has a beautiful staircase and the grand chandeliers in the lobby are reminders of the charm of the hotel.  During its glory days, Londonskaya Hotel played host to famous artists, ballerinas and influential writers.  Its guest list included famous personalities from the Ukraine and all over the world including Anton Chekhov, Marcello Mastroianni, Louis Aragon, Robert Louis Stevenson, Isidora Duncan and many others.  According to the hotel’s literature, Londonskaya has also played host to many presidents of nations.

The hotel seems to have seen better times and today, there was not a soul in the lobby except a group of tourists in search of hryvnias.  If looking for a room in Odessa, this would be a great location as the hotel is within easy walking distance to the Opera and Ballet Theatre, shops and the Old part of Odessa.  The hotel now has free Wi-Fi internet which is a plus in the Ukraine.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Potemkin Steps

Based on historical events, the movie revolves around an uprising on board the Battleship Potemkin in 1905. Conditions on the ship are dreadful and the situation comes to a head when the ship’s doctor declares rancid meat safe to eat. In a show of protest, the sailors buy provisions at the canteen instead of eating the rancid meat.  This angers the Admiral and he orders all those who ate the borsch made with the rancid meat to step under the cannons to show their loyalty, whereas those who did not are to be covered under a tarp and executed. One of the sailors by the name of Vakulinchik pleads with his shipmates to rise up against the officers of the ship. All the officers are killed and the ship is liberated. Vakulinchik unfortunately is killed during the uprising. As a symbol of the revolution, his body is placed on the docks in Odessa harbour. When the citizens of Odessa came to join the Potemkin sailors in their revolt, tsarist troops brutally slaughtered them on the steps, effectively ending the revolt in Odessa. A fleet of battleships then comes to destroy the Potemkin….

Potemkin Steps

The steps were built in 1841 to the design by F. Boffo, an architect who was responsible for many of the classic buildings in Odessa. Previously called the Boulevard Steps or the Gigantic Steps, it was renamed Potemkin Steps after the fateful 1905 mutiny.  The stairways run down from bul Prymorsky, a busy pedestrian zone, down to the port area.  The steps themselves offer two interesting features: When standing at the top of the stairways, all you can see are a few landings, however, when you stand at the base of the steps, all you can see are steps and not the landings. It’s an optical illusion created by varying the dimensions of the  steps.  The differences are small enough that you don’t notice it when climbing the steps.  The variance also have the effect of making the steps look more gigantic and long than it really is.

Cable car - Potemkin Steps

Potemkin Steps today is a recreational area for locals and you’ll see people of all ages here.  For those who  don’t feel like walking up or down the steps, there is of course a cable car that runs from the port level to the top and it’s free.  If you are here on a river cruise, your ship will be berthed near the steps, which makes it easily accessible.

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Odessans have a strong tie to their naval and maritime heritage and at the Sea Passenger Terminal Saint Nikolay, patron saint of sailors, watch over the port. A visit to the Tomb of the Unknown Sailor at Shevchenko Park gave us an insight into the great respect and patriotic honour that the young people of Odessa still hold for their history. This Obelisk, to mark the fifteenth anniversary of the victory over Germany, was unveiled in May 1960 and we were told that young school volunteers come here everyday to stand guard at the memorial. 

We walked down the long tree-lined Alley of Glory to the memorial, and when we reached the Obelisk, the atmosphere was solemn but serene.  We saw how seriously these young guards took on their duty. It was scorching hot and even the hoards of tourists milling around them and taking snaps, didn’t distract them from their post.

These young volunteers are carrying on a tradition from the days of the Soviet Union when members of the Young Communist League and Pioneers and teenage children stood guard at the memorial. Only the most loyal members were chosen for this ceremony and it was a great honor to be selected.

Today, fifteen to sixteen year old school volunteers, dressed in naval-themed uniforms come here to be on duty.  The girls look particularly pretty, with lace ribbons in their hair and matching lacey long socks. These kids march from the guard post at the main road down the Alley of Glory to the Obelisk and then stand on duty for 15 minutes before being replaced by the next watch.  They remain on guard every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.  It’s impressive watching them conduct their own drills, unsupervised by adults – a quick march followed by a slower march as they approach the Obelisk.  Language is a problem in the Ukraine and there was no way we could have spoken to the youngsters about their ceremony.  Nevertheless, the seriousness with which they hold the tradition spoke of the honour and respect that they hold for their war heroes and those who have perished in war.

Coming close up to the Obelisk, you’ll see engravings on the four sides commemorating the four key naval battles of Odessa:

- the 1854 Crimean War
- the 1905 mutiny on board the Potemkin
- the 1918 victory of the Soviet Union, and
- the 1941 landing at Grigoryevsky Cape during the defense of Odessa

At the front of the monument, inside of a bronze laurel wreath, the eternal flame burns in memory of the war dead. 

As you walk back towards the main road, you’ll see on both sides of the Alley memorial tombstones to remember Odessans who helped defend the city. May 9th is a special day at this memorial.

Pictures coming soon!

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog

Apart from its famous Potemkin Steps and the mutiny on board the battleship Potemkin, I had very limited perception of Odessa as a tourist destination.  Travel guide books suggested that its a city of great historical significance and point to glorious architectural wonders from the days of the tsars, some websites suggested Odessa as an up and coming business destination and also promoted dating with Ukrainian women and others hinted that it’s the mafia capital of the Ukraine and that it’s not safe to venture out in the dark on your own.  So, which of these conflicting comments do you believe?  When you don’t know a place, then certainly talk about a city run by the mafia can cause pre-visit jitters about personal safety, especially if you’ve got an imaginative mind and happen to watch mob movies like the Sopranos. 

So what’s Odessa really like.  It was scorching hot when we arrived in mid-August, made worst by a non-airconditioned taxi ride.  We had just been to Yorkshire where it was very cold and wet and the vast change in temperature hit hard at my travel-weary body, after a 5 a.m. start from Heathrow Airport.  I could feel a headache coming on.  As we drove the 10 miles from Odessa airport to the seaport terminal we went through city centre.  The heat, dust and glare of the afternoon sun made the buildings look as washed out and exhausted as we were and I was beginning to wonder where those promised elegant classical buildings were. 

The young cab driver was very polite but spoke no English, not even enough to confirm that we needed to be delivered to a boat and not a hotel.  We were therefore relieved when we saw the seaport terminal where our riverboat was to be berthed. My research indicates that a landmark to look for is the Hotel Odessa and when we saw this towering hotel, we knew we were in the right place. The cruise company recommended that one does not let go of your cab until you’ve sighted your cruise boat as their berth can be shifted around by the port authorities.  Much as we tried to retain the driver, time was precious and he was in a hurry, no doubt to rush to his next job.   It would have been so much easier if the cruise company’s instructions had been that we needed to enter the Port Authority building, go down a couple of flights of stairs and then exit right to the river boat berthing.  I guess if they had made it sound so simple, then more passengers would have done what we did, which was to arrange our own transfers, thus saving ourselves $400.

So focussed were we on finding out where our boat was moored, that we failed to notice this giant baby sculpture that was staring down in front of the Port Authority building.  This beautiful Statue of a Golden Baby symbolizes the rebirth of the City.

Odessa is known as the “Pearl of the Black Sea” and claims to be one of the region’s most beautiful cities, with wonderful beaches, shady parks and tree-lined boulevards. The next morning, we did our tour of the old part of town, walking through the historic city centre with its many splendid monuments. When we saw the Opera and Ballet Theatre, Vorontsov Palace and City Hall, my faith was restored, and to top it off, we made it to the Potemkin Steps with its 192 steps leading down to the harbour. The stairs were the setting for a famous scene in Serge Eisenstein’s epic 1926 film, Battleship Potemkin.  We were so fortunate that we got to see this film at the Sydney Concert Hall with a full orchestra providing the music.  The Steps and the orchestral tension created as the baby’s pram bounced down the 192 steps were indelibly imprinted on our minds.  So at the Steps, we did an instant replay of the movie scene and Tony even bounced down the Steps - loaded with his heavy bag of camera equipment.

At the end of the day, we had a nice feel for Odessa.  We felt perfectly safe exploring the city on our own – and did not have any mafia encounters!  There is a lot of work going on to beautify the central district and in a year’s time the area around the waterfront will impress with its boulevards and parks.  There are many outdoor cafes and restaurants and the shops stock very trendy gear.  Tony even managed to buy a pair of nice pants.  More on Odessa later …

Helen

Travel Signposts Blog