Trieste: a Hidden Gem on the Adriatic coast

My Two Night Trip of Habsburg History And Adriatic Beauty

Who knew a hidden gem on the Adriatic coast would become one of my favourite Italian cities? I’m about to paint a picture of one of Italy’s cities that melted my heart – Trieste.

Although it doesn’t feel or look like Italian cities, given its proximity to Austria and Slovenia, Trieste’s  architecture looks more like what you would find in those countries than in other parts of Italy, especially the south. It’s not the typical sunny Italian spot, but it’s on the ocean and has a wonderful mix of cultures due to its history. Basically, it’s unique and worth checking out!

Not About Gondola Rides or Gelato (maybe a little gelato…)

Anyways, this trip to Trieste wasn’t about gondola rides or overflowing gelato shops (although, I did indulge in some fantastic gelato!).

Situated on the Adriatic coast, Trieste is where Italy collides with Central Europe, a vibrant port city with a unique blend of cultures that left me pleasantly surprised.

In a nutshell, My two night trip to Trieste was full of strolling past grand buildings, sipping strong Illy coffee (yes, Trieste is Illy’s birthplace!), and savouring fresh seafood overlooking the sparkling sea.

And of course, visiting amazing spots that just takes your breath away. Intrigued? Then follow me on my exploration!

My Trieste Journey

Trieste is a city best explored on foot. Its compact size allows you to wander through its different eras, each corner revealing a new architectural gem or a charming piazza. Let’s delve into the layers of history that make Trieste so captivating.

Piazza Unità d’Italia: A Magnificent Square Opening Directly Onto The Adriatic.

The heart of Trieste is this vast, stunning piazza. Unlike Venice’s St. Mark’s Square, there are no Doge’s Palaces here, but the view is just as captivating. The entire square opens directly onto the Adriatic.

As I relaxed at a cafe terrace, sipping my coffee, the salty breeze whispered tales of Trieste’s long maritime history. People strolled by, children chased pigeons, and street performers added a touch of whimsy to the scene. It was the perfect introduction to the city’s vibrant energy.

Bustling Waterways: The Canal Grande

From the piazza, I wandered towards the Canal Grande, the lifeblood of Trieste’s historical commercial centre. Boats bobbed gently on the turquoise water, fishermen unloaded their daily catch, and locals chatted animatedly on the quayside.

The lively atmosphere was amazing. From the water, I admired the city skyline from a different perspective, appreciating the unique blend of architectural styles that line the canals.

Along the way, you will pass the Piazza della Borsa, a historic square in Trieste near the Grand Canal (Canale Grande). Back in the day, this square was vital because it was the centre of Trieste’s economy when it was a maritime and trading hub. The big building with all the columns you see in the picture is the Old Stock Exchange, a reminder of those prosperous times.

But the Piazza della Borsa isn’t just about history! There are lots of restaurants in the piazza and along the nearby canal, so you can grab a bite to eat and enjoy the view. It’s a great place to relax and soak up the atmosphere of Trieste.

A Night at the Opera: Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi

No exploration of Trieste’s cultural scene is complete without experiencing the grandeur of the Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi. This 19th-century theatre symbolises the city, and its opulent interior is a feast for the eyes.

If you decide to visit Trieste, check the program in advance. Catching an opera here would be a truly unforgettable experience, transporting you back to a time of high society and artistic passion.

A Pilgrimage With a View: The Sanctuary of Monte Grisa

High on a hill overlooking the city stands the Sanctuary of Monte Grisa. This imposing monument is a national shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary and offers breathtaking panoramic views across Trieste and the Gulf.

While not necessarily on everyone’s itinerary, I found the tranquility of the sanctuary a welcome respite from the city’s bustling streets.

Roman Echoes: Trieste’s Roman Gems

History buffs like me will appreciate the remnants of Trieste’s Roman roots. The partially-excavated Teatro Romano offers a glimpse into the city’s ancient past. While not as grand as Rome’s Colosseum, it’s a fascinating piece of history.

Apart from that, don’t miss the Arco di Riccardo either, a Roman arch standing proudly in the heart of the city.

My Recommendations

Miramare Castle:

A short journey from the city centre sits the romantic Miramare Castle, perched dramatically on a rocky cliff. This former Habsburg residence boasts stunning sea views and beautiful surrounding gardens. You can also visit the sumptuously furnished interior rooms and see the small table on which Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg (brother of Emperor Franz Joseph) signed his acceptance of the crown of Mexico. After only four years living in the completed castle, he travelled to that country in 1864 to become Emperor Maximilian of Mexico, only to be executed by a firing squad of the victorious Mexican Republican Army in 1867.

While the castle itself is interesting, the gardens bursting with vibrant flowers and the sound of waves crashing against the rocks below were the highlights for me.

San Giusto Castle and Cathedral:

For panoramic views and a dose of history, I headed up to San Giusto Castle. This imposing hilltop fortress played a significant role in the city’s defence and offers breathtaking vistas across Trieste and the bay.

Also on the hill is the Cathedral of San Giusto, dedicated to Saint Justus. It’s a Roman Catholic cathedral and the main church of Trieste, lavishly decorated with frescoes, mosaics and sculptures.

Grotta Gigante:

As an alternative, if you’re looking for something off the beaten path, there’s the incredible Grotta Gigante cave system, one of the world’s largest caves. This is a spelunker’s paradise, but for a short trip, I’d prioritise exploring the city itself.

Coffee: A Trieste Tradition

Trieste and coffee – it’s a love story for the ages! This city is the proud birthplace of Illy, a world-renowned brand synonymous with smooth, strong espresso.

Walking down any street, you’ll be greeted by the inviting aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafting from countless cafes. These aren’t just places to grab a quick caffeine fix; they’re social hubs where locals gather to chat, read the paper, or simply watch the world go by.

I became a regular at a charming Caffe San Marco. The friendly staff, historic atmosphere, and of course, the incredible coffee, made it my go-to spot for a morning pick-me-up.

In fact, I was so impressed, I even bought some Illy beans online from Illy Cafe to recreate the experience back home. And, let me tell you, nothing beats savouring that rich, full-bodied Illy espresso amidst the lively Triestine cafe culture.

A Taste of Trieste: Food and Wine Delights

My personal favorite is Hostaria Malcanton. This restaurant stole the show with its focus on the freshest possible seafood. The restaurant embraces Trieste’s proximity to the Adriatic Sea – ensuring you’re getting the most seasonal and delicious options.

Still Some Austrian Flavours:

Austrian rule left its mark on Trieste’s cuisine, creating a fascinating fusion. Expect to find hearty Central European dishes alongside fresh Mediterranean fare.

Twice I’ve tried to snag a table at Osteria Bier Stube Trieste, but it was completely booked both times. They must be doing something right!  While the exterior might not be fancy, that just adds to the intrigue –  I definitely recommend making a reservation to this restaurant.

For a truly memorable meal, I highly recommend La Pironada, a cozy trattoria tucked away on a side street, with delicious takes on these Austro-Italian specialties. Their Tafelspitz (braised beef) with creamy horseradish sauce and apple strudel for dessert are divine.

I was also fortunate to try the food at Joia as well. I had two dishes here – both had a rich and flavourful sauce. However, the food is a bit pricey.

Don’t Miss the Seafood Specialties!

With the Adriatic Sea lapping at its doorstep, Trieste boasts an abundance of fresh seafood. During my visit, I indulged in succulent sea bass, plump mussels steamed in white wine with garlic and herbs, and even decadent crab pasta tossed in a creamy tomato sauce. My personal favourite was the “Brodetto alla Triestina,” a simple yet flavourful fish stew packed with all the treasures of the Adriatic.

And if you want Pizza…

While pizza isn’t necessarily a traditional food in Trieste, DiNapoli Masters Pizzaioli makes authentic Neapolitan Pizza. They’re also one of the few spots open late, perfect for a satisfying post-exploration refuel.

Aperitivo Time: an Italian Ritual

Italians take their pre-dinner drinks seriously, and Trieste is no exception. I had the “aperitivo” ritual – enjoying a glass of local wine like a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from the Carso wine region or a refreshing Aperol Spritz accompanied by small bites.

They put out an amazing spread of finger foods, from miniature quiches and cured meats to marinated olives and bruschetta. For a more intimate setting, try the charming Vino diVino, a wine bar with an extensive selection of regional wines and knowledgeable staff who can help you find the perfect glass.

Then, right in the Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, you’ll find the beautiful Caffè degli Specchi. It’s a lovely spot to relax and take in the main square’s energy. They have a fantastic selection of pastries and sweets alongside their coffee drinks, so it’s perfect for an afternoon pick-me-up.

Practical Tips for Trieste Travellers

Getting There:

• Flying: Trieste Airport (Ronchi dei Legionari Airport, TRS) is a convenient option. It’s about 23 kilometres from the city centre. Taxis and public buses connect the airport to Trieste, with a journey time of around 30 minutes.
• Train: For a more scenic route, consider the train to Trieste Centrale Station. Trains connect Trieste to major Italian cities like Venice, Milan, and Rome, as well as neighbouring Slovenia and Austria.

Watch out for the Bora Wind:

Be aware of the Bora, a strong, cold wind that can suddenly appear in Trieste. This powerful wind can bring chilly temperatures, especially during winter. Pack a light, wind-resistant jacket or scarf to adjust to any sudden chills the Bora might bring.

Getting Around:

• Walking: Trieste’s city centre is incredibly walkable. Most of the major sights, like Piazza Unità d’Italia and the Miramare Castle, are within easy walking distance of each other. Lace-up your walking shoes and wander the charming streets, soaking in the unique Austro-Hungarian architecture.
• Public Transportation: An efficient bus network connects different areas of Trieste, with fares very affordable. Purchase tickets at newsstands or tobacco shops (“Tabacchi” signs) before boarding. For most central locations, you likely won’t need it much, but it’s a good option for venturing further out or if your explorations leave your feet tired.

Walking Tour Gems:

• Explore Hidden Gems: Join a walking tour with a company like freetour.com. These free (though tips are appreciated) tours led by locals can reveal hidden squares, interesting historical details, and local recommendations you might miss on your own. Two nights are a perfect amount of time to discover the highlights with a walking tour and independent exploration.

Beyond Trieste:

• Day Trips: Thanks to its border location, Trieste makes a fantastic base for exploring Slovenia and Croatia. Rent a car and discover the beauty of these neighbouring countries. Charming towns like Ljubljana, Slovenia (just 90 kilometers away) and Poreč, Croatia (about 145 kilometres away) are perfect day trip getaways.

Bonus Accommodation Tip:

Hilton DoubleTree: I had a fantastic stay at this hotel, and I highly recommend it for its comfort, location, and beautiful, recently refurbished interior! Located close to the city centre, the train station, and only 500 metres from the Piazza Unità d’Italia, DoubleTree Trieste is a perfect base to explore Trieste from. It even has its own restaurant and cocktail bar. While it may cost a bit more than other options in the city, it’s definitely worth it if your budget allows.

Final Words

Trieste wasn’t what I expected from an Italian city, and that’s what made it so special.  From the grand Habsburg boulevards to the fresh seafood and strong coffee culture, Trieste offered a unique blend of history and beauty.

For those looking for an unexpected Italian escape, brimming with culture, charm, and incredible coffee, Trieste is calling your name. Just pack your walking shoes, a light jacket for the Bora winds (especially in winter), and get ready to lose yourself in the magic of this city at the crossroads of Italy, Central Europe, and the Adriatic.

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